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Climbing on Tantalus, Mt. Dione in the background

Tantalus Range
The Tantalus Range offers up the finest mountaineering and Alpine Rock climbing objectives in the South Coast Mountains. Climbs on Mount Tantalus, Alpha, Serratus and Dionne are all excellent objectives in this amazing alpine region!

Our trips all utilize helicopter transportation to get in and out, greatly reducing the time and energy otherwise required to accomplish the main summits and routes in this range.

Dates Cost Prerequisites Location
Guides Itinerary Equipment Logistics
Related programs Registration

Dates
The Tantalus Range mountaineering program is conducted on a custom basis. Please contact us directly for more details on setting up a climbing trip to the Tantalus Range.
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Cost
(Costs are based on a 3-day climbing program with 1 Guide - longer or shorter trips can also be arranged)
$995/person + gst for a group of 3 climbers (1:3 ratio)
$1,395/person + gst for a group of 2 climbers (1:2 ratio)
$1,995/person + gst for 1 climber (1:1 ratio)

(includes helicopter transportation from Squamish, all Guiding with ACMG Guides, hut fees in the Haberl Hut, all food, all climbing equipment and Park fees)

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Prerequisites
Due to the variety of the climbs in this region, we can set specific objectives based on your climbing experience and ability. To best enjoy the climbs, people should have previous outdoor rock climbing experience to 5.8 (seconding - no lead experience required) and must be fit & prepared for full days in an alpine environment. No previous snow or glacier climbing experience is required, though this is helpful.

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Location
The Tantalus Range is located on the west side of the Squamish River midway between the towns of Squamish and Whistler, BC. Our trip is based out of Squamish, BC, approximately 1 hour north of Vancouver. We will access the alpine region via a short helicopter flight from the Squamish Airport.

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Guides and Instructors
Our Tantalus trips are guided by our Lead Guides, all certified through the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG). These local Guides live and climb in the Squamish and Whistler region, and many are responsible for 1st ascents in the Tantalus Range. Check out our About Us page to view details on our Guides.

For more information about the specific Guides for your program dates, contact our office.

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Trip Itinerary
The objective of this trip is to climb a variety of different routes in the Tantalus Range. Options will include the North Face of Serratus, the East Ridge of Alpha, the Southeast face of Dione, alpine rock routes on the West Face of Dionne and the Southeast spur on Tantalus.

The following is a brief possible schedule for the Canada West Mountain School 3-day Tantalus Range climbing trip. Many different variables (such as weather, snow and route conditions, group experience levels, etc) may influence the actual schedule, so the following should be considered a general outline only.

Day 1
Meet in Squamish at 7:00 am at the pre-arranged location. After a quick gear check you will enjoy a quick but scenic flight into the new Haberl Hut in the heart of the Tantalus range. This day will be spent climbing one of the quality routes in the range close to the camp, perhaps the North Face of Serratus. After a great meal prepared by your Guide, you will have an early evening to ensure that everyone is well rested for the early start the next morning!

Day 2
This day will be a full day out, climbing one of the longer routes on Dione or Tantalus. You will be up early and out onto the glaciers for the approach to the base of the climb. The routes will be chosen based on current conditions and specific climbing objectives of the party, but whichever you choose you will have a great day and an exciting summit!

Day 3
The 3rd day of your climbing expedition one option is to pack up early in the morning and move your gear down to the base of Alpha, where you will leave everything in preparation for the afternoon helicopter pick-up. From there, you will head up onto one of the rock routes on Alpha, all of which are superb moderate alpine rock routes. Your descent will be down the easier West Face route and across the glaciers to your gear stash, where your helicopter ride will be waiting to take you back to Squamish.

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Equipment list for Tantalus Range climbing
  • Boots - leather mountaineering boots. They should be well broken in and waterproofed
  • Backpack - 60-80 liters capacity, big enough to hold all gear for the trip plus some communal gear
  • Sleeping bag - good to -5 degrees celsius
  • Sleeping pad - therma-rest style or closed-cell foam
  • Day-pack - 30-40 liters capacity (optional, your backpack can also work as a daypack)
  • Hard shell outer layer jacket with hood - Gore-Tex style
  • Full-zip pants or bibs - Gore-Tex style (1 pair)
  • Thermal underwear - top & bottom, Polypro, Capilene, etc.
  • long climbing pants - nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pr)
  • Gaiters (1 pr)
  • Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (1 pr)
  • Waterproof gloves or w/removable liners (gloves work best for rope handling and ice axe use) (1 pr)
  • Warm parka - down, fleece or pile (1)
  • Sweater or vest - wool, fleece or down (1)
  • Socks - wool or synthetic blend (1-2 prs)
  • Toque/warm hat - wool or fleece (1)
  • Sunglasses with side shields and nose shield (1 pr)
  • Ski goggles (optional)
  • Headlamp with extra set of batteries and extra bulb
  • Personal kit (blister kit, toothbrush, medications, etc.)
  • Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
  • Sunscreen - minimum 30 spf
  • Water bottles - minimum 1 litres
  • Small "thermos" for hot drinks (optional)
  • Knife - Swiss army style
  • Compass and map (optional)

  • Technical equipment:
  • Crampons - adjusted to your boots (1 pr)

  • Technical and group equipment (supplied by CWMS if required):
  • Ice ax and technical climbing tools
  • Climbing harness - seat harness only
  • Helmet
  • 3 locking carabiners
  • 1 belay device

  • In addition, Canada West Mountain School supplies all other technical and safety gear as well as all food and cooking services.
Please go over this list before your trip to ensure that you are properly prepared and feel free to contact our office if you have any questions. Keep in mind that you will be spending all of your time outdoors in all weather. Much of your time will be spent on snow, with temperatures ranging from -10 at night to +30 during the day. The weather can vary from one extreme to the other, so plan your gear appropriately. It is recommended that you also have a set of spare street clothes for the end of the trip after you have left the mountains.

Here are a few stores in the lower mainland region that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment. If you need to purchase or rent equipment, please contact the store well in advance to ensure that what you require is available!

Altus Mountain Gear
137 West Broadway, Vancouver 604-876-5255 (rentals available)
Climb On Equipment
Squamish 604-892-2243
Coast Mountain Sports
2201 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver 604-731-6181; Park Royal store - W. Van. 604 926-6126
Mountain Equipment Co-op
130 West Broadway, Vancouver 604-872-7858 (rentals available)
Valhalla Pure
Station Square, Squamish 604-892-9092 (rentals available)
3 Vets
2200 Yukon Street, Vancouver 604 872-5475

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Logistics and transportation
Before your trip you will be contacted by our office and/or your Guide to finalize transportation and logistics details, though you should plan on meeting in Squamish on the first day at 7:00 am. All participants are required to supply or arrange their own transportation to/from Squamish for this trip. Often ride sharing can be arranged with other participants, and there is daily bus service between Vancouver and Squamish provided by Greyhound Canada. Once in Squamish, we will provide transportation by helicopter up into the alpine region.

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Related Programs
Alpine Skills Week
Guided Adventures
Ice Climbing Essentials
Intro to Winter Mountaineering

Please contact the Canada West Mountain School office by phone or email directly for more details.
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Canada West Mountain School
47 West Broadway
Vancouver, BC
V5Y 1P1

Information/registration please call: 604-878-7007
Toll free in North America: 1-888-892-2266

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This Mount Tantalus Guided climbing page last updated on March 7, 2008 10:20 AM