Truett Hurst has nice wine-tasting setting

Between the babies and dogs, birthday parties and live music, there's room for some good wine tasting at Truett Hurst in Healdsburg.

The open policy for infants and pets, plus the flexibility for small private parties, makes the Dry Creek Road winery a destination for locals as much as for tourists, all drawn by the upscale ranch-like setting and cheerful commotion.

The property is farmed with organic and biodynamic practices, but you'll have to ask to find that out. There's no mystical promotion here; instead, the winery is a modern-looking, dark wood farmhouse anchored by an elaborate garden of flowers, trellised vines, vegetables and herbs. Staff is more interested in keeping up with visitors' requests for more wine - or water for the baby.

The vibe: We had planned to stop in for a quick tasting, but ended staying more than a hour, mesmerized by the sun's warmth on the large paver stone patio edged by 5 acres of gardens, lawns and fields, plus a herd of goats and sheep in an adjacent pasture.

The experience: On weekends, it can be a challenge to find space at the two bars; the live music by artists from as far away as Nashville lends a party mood, as do periodic "extras," such as the free barbecue being handed out on our visit. Attempts at conversation with the busy tasting hosts were abandoned, though they were excellent at friendly-if-rapid-fire descriptions of each wine we selected.

We took our wine (poured in stemless glasses) outside, chatted with lots of other happy guests, and eventually wandered down to the showpiece element of the property: a collection of red Adirondack chairs nestled beneath shade trees on the banks of the creek.

The team: The Truett Hurst partnership was formed in 2007 by Paul Dolan and Phil Hurst, both originally of Fetzer Winery in Mendocino County. The winemaker is Virginia Lambrix, who is also in charge of the co-brand VML Winery in the Russian River Valley.

The wines: Choose five wines for a $5 fee, including a 2011 Bluebird Sauvignon Blanc ($22), a 2011 Swallowtail Chardonnay ($25), a 2010 Burning Man Petite Sirah ($33), and a 2010 Hurst Family Collection Osprey Cabernet Sauvignon ($50). Zinfandels are a specialty, offered as a 2010 Southdown ($29), a 2010 Rattler Rock ($31) or a 2010 Red Rooster ($29).

The extras: Picnic food is a new amenity, so stretch out a visit by purchasing salumi, cheeses, smoked salmon and pita chips. If you plan on commandeering a patio table for a group, call ahead and get permission because seats are coveted.

If you go: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Truett Hurst, 5610 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-9545. truetthurst.com.

Nearby: Chateau Diana, 6195 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, (707) 433-6992, chateaud.com. Amphora Winery, 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, (707) 431-7767, amphorawines.com. Papapietro Perry Winery, 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, (707) 433-0422, papapietro-perry.com.

Rating: Rating: TWO STARS

E-mail: travel@sfchronicle.com