Harvesting Happiness in Poverty: Impressions of Madagascar

Harvesting Happiness in Poverty: Impressions of Madagascar

26 November 2012
Felix Haas
A girl in Antananarivo holding a bottle of water that she had asked me for. This picture was used in 2007 for a Y-Care International (an offshoot of the YMCA) Emergency Appeal. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A girl in Antananarivo holding a bottle of water that she had asked me for. This picture was used in 2007 for a Y-Care International (an offshoot of the YMCA) Emergency Appeal. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
I took this picture at a road stop somewhere between Antananarivo and Mahajanga. You can see the red layers of sediment behind the girl. Sadly, driving across an island which was once covered by thick rain forest one now sees bare plains of burned land and red turf. Malagasy farmers have burned and cut down most of the islands forests in order to make way for their rice fields. For this reason Madagascar is now called the "Red Island". // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
I took this picture at a road stop somewhere between Antananarivo and Mahajanga. You can see the red layers of sediment behind the girl. Sadly, driving across an island which was once covered by thick rain forest one now sees bare plains of burned land and red turf. Malagasy farmers have burned and cut down most of the islands forests in order to make way for their rice fields. For this reason Madagascar is now called the "Red Island". // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
Children playing in one of the many ship wrecks on the beach of the fishers quarter in Mahajanga. The smallest one of them would not stop crying once he saw me so I had to leave them to themselves. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
Children playing in one of the many ship wrecks on the beach of the fishers quarter in Mahajanga. The smallest one of them would not stop crying once he saw me so I had to leave them to themselves. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A boy with his pet somewhere near the market in Antsirabe. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A boy with his pet somewhere near the market in Antsirabe. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
After taking this picture of a girl in Antsirabe, I approached her to show her the outcome. Her mother had come out of the house too and would not understand why I could not leave her a copy. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
After taking this picture of a girl in Antsirabe, I approached her to show her the outcome. Her mother had come out of the house too and would not understand why I could not leave her a copy. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A girl at the "turning of the bones" in Antsirabe. The whole village gathers around a family that is to exhume the bones of their family members. In a procession that starts at the family house and ends at the family tomb, the whole village dances to the hypnotic tunes of a small band. People dance, drink and cry. The remains are taken out, turned and returned to their resting place. The whole ceremony is undergone in a strange mixture of gloominess and ecstasy. // Copyright © Felix Haas. ARR.
A girl at the "turning of the bones" in Antsirabe. The whole village gathers around a family that is to exhume the bones of their family members. In a procession that starts at the family house and ends at the family tomb, the whole village dances to the hypnotic tunes of a small band. People dance, drink and cry. The remains are taken out, turned and returned to their resting place. The whole ceremony is undergone in a strange mixture of gloominess and ecstasy. // Copyright © Felix Haas. ARR.
A girl near the bus terminal in Fianarantsoa. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A girl near the bus terminal in Fianarantsoa. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A woman in Anakao, the very south of Madagascar, carrying her child. Many women on the island wear a thick paste on their faces to protect their skin from the sun. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A woman in Anakao, the very south of Madagascar, carrying her child. Many women on the island wear a thick paste on their faces to protect their skin from the sun. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A girl in a village somewhere in the Andringitra Mountains. She is carrying one of her smaller siblings on her back. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A girl in a village somewhere in the Andringitra Mountains. She is carrying one of her smaller siblings on her back. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
One of the many porters we had to hire before we were allowed to ascend to the 2.658m peak of Madagascar's second highest mountain Pic Boby. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
One of the many porters we had to hire before we were allowed to ascend to the 2.658m peak of Madagascar's second highest mountain Pic Boby. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
Children greeting us after descending from the high plains of the Andringitra Mountains. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
Children greeting us after descending from the high plains of the Andringitra Mountains. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A little girl in a group of children somewhere in the Andringitra Mountains. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A little girl in a group of children somewhere in the Andringitra Mountains. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
I found this small boy on one of the ground steps leading up to the hills bordering the city center of the capital Antananarivo. I was walking past him when his wailing and sobbing made me stop and give him the banana I was holding. He stopped crying and eventually started pealing the fruit. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
I found this small boy on one of the ground steps leading up to the hills bordering the city center of the capital Antananarivo. I was walking past him when his wailing and sobbing made me stop and give him the banana I was holding. He stopped crying and eventually started pealing the fruit. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
This is not someone that my camera found, but rather this man found my camera. He stopped me walking by and insisted I take a picture of him. He was very pleased with the outcome and gave it a happy thumbs-up. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
This is not someone that my camera found, but rather this man found my camera. He stopped me walking by and insisted I take a picture of him. He was very pleased with the outcome and gave it a happy thumbs-up. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A street kid in Antananarivo asking for my coke. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
A street kid in Antananarivo asking for my coke. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
An older woman panhandling in the center of Antananarivo. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.
An older woman panhandling in the center of Antananarivo. // Copyright © Felix Haas. All Rights Reserved.

On his four week stay in Madagascar, Felix Haas discovered that the people don't need a lot of money to be happy.

With a per capita GDP of about one twenty-fifth of the world average, Madagascar is amongst the poorest countries of our planet. In the early 2000s it looked like the large island state might be able to break free of the bane of extreme poverty. The government had established an export processing zone as well as policies reasonably good to profit from the US African Growth and Opportunity Act, passed by US Congress in 2000. However, when the president in power, Admiral Didier Ratsiraka, refused to step down after losing the 2001 elections, the struggle for power that ensued ate up all of the fragile advances that had been achieved.
I first set foot in Madagascar in the late Summer of 2005, to spend a month living with different Malagasy families. I found a country seriously shaken by poverty. It was my first time in Africa and I was deeply bewildered by what I found. Bewildered and, frankly speaking, at first also quite scared. My first couple of days, walking the streets of the capital Antananarivo, I did not take a single picture. I felt sickened by the idea of the rich white European going to Africa to take pictures of poor black people. I felt sickened by the fact that the camera I was holding cost me more than the average Malagasy makes in a year. This sickening faded quickly, not because I simply chose to forget my reservations, but because of the warm hearted nature of the people I met. Time and time again children came up to play with me or adults stopped me walking by to have their picture taken. How many times did I have to explain that even though you could see your picture on the small screen of my camera, I still could not leave them a copy? Most of the people might have been terribly poor, but nowhere did I see the same worn out faces that your eyes brush over when you take a commuters train in some first world capital.
When I left the island five weeks later, I left it a richer man. These pictures are a small account of the many faces and people I encountered.

The views expressed in this article are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect Fair Observer’s editorial policy.