FOOD

Uilliam’s

20a Malaya Bronnaya Ul, (495) 650-64-62, m. Pushkinskaya, Mayakovskaya, http://uilliams.ru/

Uilliam Lamberti, the Italian who has long been guiding the kitchens of Ginza Project, is striking out on his own with a self-named set-up near Patriarch’s Ponds.

And first impressions suggest that he’s doing a good job of attracting fans of the Ginza brand to his newly opened Italian affair, which combines solidly rustic cuisine with a warm atmosphere.

It was noticeably packed on a muggy, rainy Sunday afternoon – the large communal table to the front had an extended family group celebrating together, and it took time to rustle up a table for two in the quieter, more intimate back room.

Meanwhile, the design borrows extensively from Ginza’s favorite tricks: the familiar recipe of open kitchen and homely décor seen everywhere from Ded Pikhto to Dzhon Dhzoli is all present and correct.

The front room is light and airy, with full-length windows opening onto Malaya Bronnaya to keep guests cool in the heat.

Out back it’s rather cosier, but cramming in the tables as close as possible means it isn’t perhaps the perfect spot to seal that confidential deal or whisper sweet nothings to your dining partner. On the other hand, it does encourage a bit more interaction between tables – evoking something closer to a smalltown taverna than I’ve previously found in Moscow. Get rid of the lounge jazz muzak and it would be hard to improve on the atmosphere.

But what about the food? The menu homes in on a small range of traditional, homely Italian dishes. There’s no pizza, and the pasta and risotto choices are kept to a surprising minimum – the emphasis seems to be on doing a few things well, rather than trying to everything with mixed results.

© Photo / T he Moscow News / Andy Potts

Salmon on a bed of ‘spaghetti’ made from grated zucchini

Thus inspired, it seemed like an ideal chance to explore the salads. Too often this results in either a plate of unremarkable greenery, or something slathered in mayonnaise. But here, the warm duck and mango salad worked impressively. There were enough flavors to ensure it wasn’t simply like eating a bowl of grass, and a sympathetically tangy sauce blended in rather than overpowering.

Coupled with some high-quality bread and olives brought out as a complimentary amuse-bouche, we were off to a good start.

Among the main courses, the “less-is-more” approach continued. Good quality ingredients, simply cooked and unfussily presented, ensured a satisfying meal.

My date, despite having eaten earlier, couldn’t resist the salmon, which arrived tender and tasty on a bed of “spaghetti” made from grated zucchini – and was reluctant to give up the plate until every last morsel had been hoovered up.

Meanwhile the grilled rabbit, enlivened by a drizzle of lemon juice, delivered exactly as promised: the meat was tender and gamey, more than capable of standing alone. Most rabbit dishes tend to come with a sauce, but this was a welcome reminder that good ingredients don’t need much tampering to come up trumps.

For fans of Lamberti’s work with the Ginza brand, Uilliam’s could become the next big thing on Moscow’s dining scene.

Schyot, please!*

Duck and mango salad 550

Salmon 500

Grilled rabbit 550

Homemade lemonade (1 liter) 450

*All prices are in roubles