Iran’s
interior plateaus are almost completely surrounded by mountains.
The main mountain system, the Zagros Mountains, cuts across the
country for more than 1,600 km (1,000 mi) from northwest to
southeast. With the exception of the Khūzestān coastal plain,
which extends from the northern reaches of the Persian Gulf, the
Zagros Mountains occupy all of western Iran. The central part of
the range averages more than 340 km (210 mi) in width. Many
peaks of the Zagros exceed 4,000 m (12,000 ft) in elevation; the
highest is Zard Kūh (4,547 m/14,918 ft). Peaks rising above
2,300 m (7,500 ft) capture considerable moisture, which
percolates down to the lower-lying basins as groundwater. These
basins, ranging from about 1,200 to 1,500 m (about 4,000 to
5,000 ft) in elevation, contain fertile soil that traditionally
has sustained diverse and intensive crop cultivation.
In Iran’s northern
reaches, a steep, narrow mountain range, the Elburz Mountains,
rims the entire southern coast of the Caspian Sea. This range
extends more than 600 km (400 mi) in length and averages about
100 km (about 60 mi) in width. The country's highest peak, Mount
Damāvand (5,670 m/18,602 ft), lies in the central part of the
range. Several other peaks of the Elburz Mountains exceed 3,600
m (12,000 ft). The northern slopes of the range receive
considerable rainfall throughout the year and support forests. A
fertile coastal plain averaging 24 km (15 mi) in width lies
between the Caspian Sea and the mountains. East of the Elburz
Mountains is a series of parallel mountain ranges with
elevations of 2,400 to 2,700 m (8,000 to 9,000 ft). These ranges
are interspersed with many narrow, arable valleys. Several low
mountain ridges, generally referred to as the eastern highlands,
run along Iran’s eastern border.
Within this
mountainous rim lies a series of basins known collectively as
the central plateau. They include the Dasht-e Kavir, a huge
salt-encrusted desert in north central Iran; the Dasht-e Lūt, a
sand-and-pebble desert in the southeast; and several fertile
oases.
The mountains of
Iran constitute an active earthquake zone, and numerous minor
earthquakes occur each year. Major earthquakes causing great
loss of life and property damage also occur periodically. During
the 18th century earthquakes twice leveled Tabrīz, the principal
city in the northwest, killing at least 40,000 people on each
occasion. Several severe earthquakes resulting in thousands of
deaths have occurred since the mid-20th century. A devastating
earthquake centered in the fault zone where the Elburz and
Zagros
mountains intersect in northwestern
Iran killed an estimated 37,000 people in June 1990. A December
2003 earthquake in southern Iran destroyed much of the ancient
city of Bam and killed more than 30,000 people. Several of
Iran's highest mountains are volcanic cones; only Mount Damāvand
and Kūh-e Taftān in southeastern Iran are active volcanoes, both
periodically emitting gases near their summits.
Plant and
Animal Life
Although more than
10,000 plant species have been identified in Iran, the natural
vegetation in most of the country has been uprooted and replaced
by cultivated crops or pastures. Natural forests consisting of
beech, oak, other deciduous trees, and conifers grow in parts of
the Elburz Mountains. Some regions of higher elevation in the Zagros Mountains contain wooded areas consisting primarily of
oak. Wild fruit trees, including almond, pear, pomegranate, and
walnut, grow in both the Elburz and Zagros mountains. In the
more arid central part of the country, wild pistachio and other
drought-resistant trees grow in
areas that have not been disturbed by human activity. Tamarisk
and other salt-tolerant bushes grow along the margins of the Dasht-e Kavir.
A wide variety of
native mammals, reptiles, birds, and insects inhabit Iran. Many
species of mammals—including wolves, foxes, bears, mountain
goats, red mountain sheep, rabbits, and gerbils—continue
to thrive.
Others—including Caspian tigers, Caspian seals, desert onagers,
three species
of deer, gazelles, and lynx—are endangered despite the
establishment of special wildlife refuge areas
and other government programs initiated to protect them. Some
323 species of birds inhabit Iran; more than 200 species are
migratory birds that spend part of the year in other countries.
Climate
Iran’s
varied landscape produces several different climates. On the
northern edge
of the country, the Caspian coastal plain, with an average
elevation at or below sea level, remains humid all year. Winter
temperatures rarely fall below freezing, and maximum summer
temperatures rarely exceed 29°C (85°F). Annual precipitation
averages 650 mm (26 in) in the eastern part of the plain
(Māzandarān Province) and more than 1,900 mm (75 in) in the
western part (Gilān Province).
At higher
elevations to the west, settlements in the Zagros Mountain
basins experience lower temperatures. These areas are subject to
severe winters, with average daily temperatures below freezing,
and warm summers, averaging 25°C (77°F) in the northwest and
33°C (91°F) in the central and southern Zagros. Annual
precipitation, including snowfall, averages more than 280 mm (11
in) at higher elevations. Most precipitation falls between
October and April.
The central
plateau region also experiences regional variations. In Tehrān,
located at an elevation of 1,200 m (3,900 ft) on the northern
edge of the plateau, the temperature averages 2°C (36°F) in
January and 29°C (85°F) in July. The city receives an average of
230 mm (9 in) of precipitation annually. The arid basins of
central and eastern Iran generally receive less than 200 mm (8
in) of precipitation per year. Yazd, for example, averages less
than 70 mm (3 in) of precipitation. Its winters are cool, but
temperatures almost never fall below freezing; summers are very
hot, averaging 38°C (100°F) for most of July and August.
The
coastal plains along the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman in
southern Iran have mild winters, with average January
temperatures ranging from 7° to 18°C (45° to 64°F) in Khūzestān
Province; average temperatures are even higher in Bandar-e
‘Abbās on the Strait of Hormuz. Summers are very humid and hot,
with temperatures exceeding 48°C (119°F) during July in the
interior areas. Annual precipitation ranges from 145 mm to 355
mm (6 to 14 in) in this region
Mt.
Damavand
Shaped like Mt.
Fuji , Mt. Damavand (5671m) is the highest mountain in Iran and
easily accessible from Tehran, although it is actually in
Mazandaran province. Damavand is a volcano
still belching sulphuric fumes which are strong enough to kill stray sheep. It
was first climbed by a westerner in 1837. The usual starting
point is Reyneh, where there is a mountaineering club at the
junction where the main road enters the village.
Tragically, the
manager of the club, an expert local mountaineer, and his sons
died a few years ago while trying to climb the mountain. This
gives you some idea of the potential danger.You can see Mt
Damavand on the IRIO,OOO note, on bottles of Damarvand spring
water and from the air as you fly into Tehran, smog permitting.
Don't confuse the mountain of Damavand with the village of
Damavand to its south.
Reyneh
One possible
starting point for exploring the mountain and the nearby
countryside is the pretty village of Reyneh. From Reyneh, there
are fine views of other picturesque villages on the far side of
the valley. Even if you don't want to climb the mountain, there
are plenty of other local walking trails to enjoy.There is no
hotel, but if you ask around, especially if you want to climb
the mountain, someone will put you up in their home for about
IR25.000 per person. There are a couple of kababis and other
shops in the village.
Payam
Around 55km to
the north-west, Payam has pistes suitable for beginners and more
advanced skiers, and there's a restaurant at the Payam Inn. The
season here lasts from mid-December through to mid-March.
Mt. Sabalan
ALP Tours &
Travel Agency . also organises short tours to Mt Sabalan
(4811m), due east of Tabriz, where it's possible to climb rocks
and visit four glaciers in two or three days. A two-day tour
inclusive of transport, full board and lodging in a mountain hut
costs around US$22..A one-week tour taking in all the glaciers
on the mountain is likely to cost around US$55 provided you've
managed to assemble a group of at least 10 people. You can also
climb Mt. Sabalan from Sara'eyn .
Mt.
Sahand
This majestic
mountain (3707m), about 35km to the south-east of Tabriz,
dominates the area between Tabriz and Maraqeh. It has ski slopes
to suit all levels of ability as well as hot mineral springs and
an ice lake for skating. Because Sahand is much higher than
Payam. the ski season here is much longer.
ALP Tours &
Travel Agency offers day trips to the ski slopes inclusive of
all necessary equipment.
Karaftu Caves
If you take a
powerful torch(flashlight) you can explore the labyrinthine
chambers and passageways of the Karaftu Caves, 25km south-west
of Takab. Among other traces of what must once have been a
sanctuary carved out of the cliff, there is a Greek inscription
mentioning Heracles (Hercules), who had a cult following in this
region during the period. You will need to charter a 4WD vehicle
to get there from Takab. Ask at the Rangi Hotel and they should
be able to arrange something for about IR60.000 return,
including waiting time.
Ali Sadr
Caves (Oar An Sadr)
Discovered 40
years ago by a local shepherd out looking for a lost goat, these
remarkable caves, about 100km north of Hamadan, are up to 40m
high. A river with clear water up to 14m deep flows through the
middle. Nothing lives in the water - surprisingly even bats
don't find it worth hanging around here - and there are no signs
of any inhabitants from past centuries. Although it's possible
to stay overnight most people visit the caves on a day trip from
Hamadan.
The
IR20,000 entrance fee includes a tour in a boat; you sit in a
small rowing boat, attached to a paddle boat, which the guide
steers. The commentary is only in Farsi, but there's little to
explain anyway. The guide paddles away, while towing your boat,
for about 20 to 30 minutes, then you walk around the middle of
the cave for another 20 to 30 minutes - there are nearly 1km of
walkways, and plenty more under construction. Then it's another
20- to 3D-minute paddle, along a different route, back to the
cave entrance.Along the way you'll see labelling on some of the
stalactites and stalagmites identifying them as the 'Statue of
Liberty' etc. Texts from the Quran suspended above the water
also help you while away the time. But it's the majesty and
eeriness of the caves themselves which is the main attraction.
It can be cool inside the cave, so a light jumper
(sweater) is a good idea. The caves are mostly well lit, but if
you have a really strong torch (flashlight), bring it. Very few
camera flashes will be good enough to take decent photos. The
Guide Map of Hamndan City & Road Map of Alisadr Wonderful
Cave, available in Hamadan, gives some useful information
about the caves in English - though you will be glad to know
there are no roads (yet) in the caves.If possible, try and avoid
visiting on a Friday or public holiday when the caves will be
crawling with Iranian families and hundreds of screaming school
kids. Foreigners are often whisked to the front of the queue for
boats, but at such times the wait could be a long one. Outside
the caves there is a real carnival atmosphere, with playgrounds
and souvenir shops. How much you'll enjoy the caves probably
depends on whether you come from a coun_ with its own watery
cave systems or not.
Namak Abrud
In summer people
flock to Namak Abrud, 12km west of Chalous, to ride the telecabin
(cable car) up 1050m-high Mt Medovin. It’s a magnificent ride,
but very cold even in summer, and if you’re unlucky the hill
will be covered in low cloud. Blotting out the magnificent
views- make an early start before the clouds can can set in.
There are plans to build a second telecabin, and dreamers scheme
to extend the original all the way to Tehran.
A return trip on
the telecabin costs IR20.000, and it’s open from 10 am to 4 pm
daily in summer. The entrance is off the main road between
Ramsar and Chalous, but the telecabin itself is 2 km further
backP you could probably hitch a ride from the entrance, or just
walk – it’s easy enough to spot.
Kelardasht
Nicknamed the
'Paradise of Iran', Kelardasht is a fertile depression more than
1250m above sea level. Recent archaeological discoveries( the
finds are in the National Museum of Iran in Tehran) have
uncovered habitation dating back to the 10th cen'nry AD. The
main town in the region is Hasan Keif, on the road between Abbas
Abad and Marzan Abad.
Although it's
not very easy to reach without a car, Kelardasht is the place to
head for if you are hankering af'er some outdoor activities.
There are some great hiking trails. especially around the tiny
and peculiarly shaped Valasht Lake; troul fishing spots in
nearby streams; and even cross-country skiing in winter.
Ideally, come for a few days and bring camping equipment with
you.
Mt. Alam
The best place
to start climbing Mt Alam (4850m), or one of the dozens of peaks
higher than 4()()()m in this part of ,he Alborz, is Rodbarak,
about 20km north-east of Mt Alam. At ROdbarak, you can find
somewhere to stay, and organise a guide and hire donkeys and
porters for the ascent. It generally takes two days to Ire from
Rudbarak, via Vanderaban village, to the first hut at Sarchal
(at 3900m), where you can stay and cook meals. There's another
simple hut at 4200m. From Sarchal, the climb to the peak and
back along the easiest route (ask directions if you have no
guide) can be done in one day. You can also walk from Mt Alam to
Mt Takht-e-Soleiman (44900m) in one day along a thin ridge, but
this is an experts – only route, so seek local advice before
attempting it.
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