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  Article

  Still Hungary

  For most of this century, Manhattan's Yorkville harbored a sizable Hungarian population. Their coffeehouses, butcher shops, and restaurants were anchored by Paprika Weiss, a store highlighting the Magyar obsession, available in mild, medium, and hot ...

  by Robert Sietsema on May 11, 1999

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  I, the Jury

  I consider jury duty the carbuncle on the backside of my life. I've wriggled and wrangled and just plain lied to get out of it. This time, however, there was no stalling; I had to show up. My service was blessedly brief, consisting mainly of long wai...

  by Jessica Harris on May 4, 1999

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  Article

  Hamburger Heaven

  You'd think the big-chain renditions would have killed the burger. But the assault of Ronald and his pals on our national dish has only made it stronger. Increasingly, fancy restaurants like City Hall and Patroon sling bunned disks of ground meat, wh...

  by Robert Sietsema on April 27, 1999

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  Article

  Spring Willow

  We all need an array of restaurants in our lives. There's the joint where the food is fine, the price is right, and they deliver on rainy nights, and then there's the hangout where the bartender knows your name and your problems. It's essential to ha...

  by Jessica Harris on April 20, 1999

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  Article

  Cuckoo for Cou-Cou

  Sporting an electric-blue awning, Culpepper's is a brand-new Bajan caf a few blocks south of Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn's Prospect-Lefferts Gardens, home to Haitians, Jamaicans, Dominicans, Trinidadians, and Barbadians, who call themselves Bajans. ...

  by Robert Sietsema on April 13, 1999

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  Article

  Bookpeople's Banquette

  One of the early restaurants to stake a claim in what over the past decade it helped establish as the Flatiron district, L'acajou is a lunchtime fave where uptown and downtown publishing meet. A long bar presumably crafted from the eponymous mahogany...

  by Jessica Harris on April 6, 1999

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  Article

  Gimme a Pigfoot

  There's magic in pied de cochon ($13) flesh scraped from boiled bones and chopped fine, merged with bits of onion, celery, and carrot, then formed into a patty and fried like hash. Unless you identified the peculiar interplay of solid and glutinous ...

  by Robert Sietsema on March 30, 1999

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  Article

  Home Depot

  A few weeks ago I asked Leadfoot Louis, my Jamaican taxi-driver friend and guide to island things, where he went for the cornmeal porridge he slurps up as we slalom through morning traffic. He suggested a place run by a former colleague turned food-c...

  by Jessica Harris on March 23, 1999

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  Article

  Eat, Lean, and Snooze

  Among the many amazing features of In God We Trust is a wall of Astroturf next to the tables, which makes for some comfy leaning after downing your fufu and soup. This Ghanaian caf, just north of the commercial South Bronx area known as the Hub, is ...

  by Robert Sietsema on March 16, 1999

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  Article

  A Little Lite Music

  No one will argue that a noisy restaurant is unpleasant, but music, if any, should also be appropriate to the setting. I organize my mind with Bach, boogie with Aretha, and in my weaker moments wish I could find a man who could love me with the rich...

  by Jessica Harris on March 9, 1999

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  Article

  Abalone, No Baloney

  The 2300 miles of mountains that separate Chile and Argentina prevent much culinary resemblance. While Chileans depend on seafood that rides the Humboldt Current, their neighbors remain obsessed with the semiferal cattle first loosed on the pampas by...

  by Robert Sietsema on March 2, 1999

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  Article

  Soho Abcedarius

  The Gallic culture with which I enjoy the greatest affinity is viniculture. Like many early winos, I rejoiced in the discovery of the French paradox, having spent decades, glass of rouge in hand, watching with bemusement as my friends learned the glo...

  by Jessica Harris on February 23, 1999

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  Royal Road

  Kings Highway is Brooklyn's camino real a grand thoroughfare tracing a grid-defying arc through the heart of immigrant neighborhoods: East New York, Flatlands, Homecrest, Midwood, Bensonhurst. From the raised platform of the D train, benches that s...

  by Robert Sietsema on February 16, 1999

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  Article

  M-m-m Mumbai

  Indian fusion has gone so far I'm expecting to encounter curried foie gras any day so far it made me long to revisit traditional dishes. So I headed for the renowned Salaam Bombay, which celebrates Indian cooking from the tandoori grills of Rajastha...

  by Jessica Harris on February 9, 1999

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  Stoemp

  Squaring off across a windy meat-district corner, a pair of Belgian eateries beckon fans with jocular sounding specialties like waterzooi, dame blanche, and stoemp. Petite Abeille ("Little Bee") is the welterweight underdog, sporting a modest dining ...

  by Robert Sietsema on February 2, 1999

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  Buena Ideya

  Christmas was over, Easter was far away, I needed a break, but the calendar was too crunched for a weekend getaway. I'd just about despaired when Ideya materialized like a hibiscus in a puddle of slush. A neon-rimmed cooler that could have been impor...

  by Jessica Harris on January 26, 1999

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  Article

  Two Hours Before the Maste

  The stretch of Coney Island Avenue that runs through Ditmas Park marks the culinary center of the city's thriving Muslim community, packed with more restaurants serving halal meat than any other district. Their fronts emblazoned with Arabic or Cyrill...

  by Robert Sietsema on January 19, 1999

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  Article

  Sol Food

  Cigar connoisseurs will recognize the Soho-looking storefront of Fort Greene's Sol by the logo, which bears more than a passing resemblance to a Cohiba band. Others will notice the crowded bar through the large glass windows, or perhaps be lured by t...

  by Jessica Harris on January 12, 1999

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  Article

  East Side Gallic Gorge

  One of the classics of French regional cooking is choucroute garnie: sauerkraut topped with a cholesterol wet dream of smoked and pickled pig parts. The dish seems at first more German than French, but anyone who knows the ping-ponging history of Als...

  by Jessica Harris on January 5, 1999

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  Article

  Soul Remains

  Leafing through back issues of The Amsterdam News at the Schomburg Library, I stumbled on a restaurant advertising section dated January 26, 1946. Many intriguing display ads evoked a bygone Harlem the Swanky Bar and Grill ("You'll really enjoy our ...

  by Robert Sietsema on January 5, 1999