The dos and don'ts of denim

Jeans may be American as apple pie but in dressing rooms across the country women have a bad taste in their mouth.

Overwhelmed by countless styles and shifting trends in denim, women of all ages and body types labor to find the perfect pair of jeans — and the answer is not jeggings.

"For me, denim is an absolute nightmare," said Kristi Lannon, owner of Crass Couture boutique on Market Square and stylist for the new "Morning Makeover" segment on WTNZ Fox 43. "That's why I decided to choose high-end denim for the fit."

In the past decade, the cultural resurgence of denim has made jeans the "it" item, and as a result, premium denim is sold in the mainstream market for $150-$300.

High-end brands, such as Citizens for Humanity, 7 For All Mankind and Joe's Jeans, are sought-after for their fit and status by men and women alike. To some, the stitching on the back pockets of these brands is as recognizable and elite as car logos.

However, no matter the price tag or age of the wearer, there are basic considerations to keep in mind before heading to the store.

"Know your sizes so you don't have a misconception of what will work once you are ready to try things on," said Jordan Blankenbecler, a booking agent for wardrobe stylists at Macs/Amax in Nashville who earned his degree in fashion merchandising from East Tennessee State University.

Blankenbecler urges women to have their measurements taken by a tailor in advance. Begin with three basic measurements: waist, hip and thigh. This information will help narrow down the proper size using any brand's sizing chart.

Then measure the inseam, the length from the crotch to the inside bottom of the leg, to determine the difference between a petite, ankle, regular, tall or long cut. Women with shorter inseams may be tempted to cuff a longer jean, however, this will visually stunt the height even more.

Finally, the rise is the distance between the crotch and the waist. The terms low-rise, mid-rise and high-waisted refers to where the jean is worn in relation to the hip.

"I purchase denim that fits great at the waist and thigh, then have my tailor trim the legs from the knee down," said Blankenbecler. "This creates a slimmer look on a lower-price point jean."

Herein lies a secret to finding the perfect pair of jeans: they may not be perfect at the start but don't let the search end in the store. Once a pair fits properly in more than one target area, make additional alternations to create a custom fit.

Alterations range from shortening the original hem to taking in the waist, and in Blankenbecler's case, cost between $10-$15 per leg.

"It's an investment in the sense that you feel better about yourself," said Lannon who swears by tailoring her 7s. "A pair of good-fitting jeans can literally alter the way your body looks."

Unfortunately, an ill-fitting pair can do the same but in the opposite direction.

"Too often women follow a trend and not what is flattering to their body type," said local fashion designer Jenna Colina who presented during the Spring 2012 Knoxville Fashion Week.

Pear shapes

To avoid the infamous "muffin top," women who are pear-shaped and carry most of their weight through the midsection should steer clear of low-rise jeans.

Colina suggests opting for a mid-rise boot cut which is designed to be narrow at the knee and slightly flared at the ankle. Creating this hourglass proportion on the lower half of the body balances the weight from top to bottom.

Tall and lean

Skinny jeans work best on tall and lean figures because the slim silhouette is unforgiving through the thigh and hips. Narrow and cropped at the ankle, this style is seen in a bold range of colors as summer approaches.

"If you want a slimmer look but don't want to feel like you can't breathe when sitting at your desk, look for denim that has 1- to 3-percent spandex in the material," advises Blankenbecler.

"This little give goes a long way when trying to pull off the slim look without the denim being too constricting."

Flattering curves

Both the straight and trouser jean are flattering on most body types, especially in a darker wash. Because each style creates a long and straight line from the waist to ankle, the body is elongated and attention is taken away from the hips and thighs.

In addition to its slimming charm, dark denim has propelled what was originally made for miners and became iconic on cowboys into professional work attire in some nine-to-five settings — either to the chagrin or elation of the modern woman.

Whatever the case, this much is true:

"Unless you have your own stylist to pull clothing for you, everyone has to go through the drudgery of trying stuff on and being frustrated about the fit," said Blankenbecler. "Take a friend shopping with you who will be honest, don't feel pressure to buy on the spot and be patient. It's worth the wait."