Burgundy travel guide

Burgundy’s history stretches even further into the past. Hilltop villages and market towns are adorned with some of the most magnificent Romanesque structures in Europe. The basilica of Vezelay, the abbey of Cluny and the abandoned Fontenay Abbey are among the must-see sights.

The region also boasts some of France’s most spectacular castles. Chateau d’Ancy le Franc is styled on the Italian Renaissance; Chateau de Cormatin is a unique survivor from the days before the revolution. And there are scores of other, more intimate castles.

At Burgundy’s rural heart lies the Morvan National Park, 1,000 square miles of unspoiled wildness. It’s dotted with lakes and picturesque villages, many of which have family-run brasseries in their tree-shaded squares. I come to the Morvan to get away from the world. What better way to while away the heat of the day than with a slab of homemade pate and a glass of chill Puligny-Montrachet?

Even if there were no historical wonders in Burgundy, the gastronomic cuisine would be reason enough to holiday here. Boeuf bourguignon is the region’s signature dish but there are scores of other local specialities. One of France’s most celebrated cheeses, Epoisses, comes from a lovely little village of the same name (complete with rambling medieval castle). Locals will insist you wash down the cheese with a glass of vielles vignes (old vine) Chablis.

The only drawback to a holiday in Burgundy is that you risk returning home larger and heavier than when you arrived. Unless, of course, you burn off those calories with a brisk hike across the lonely peaks of the southern Morvan.

Just be careful when you pause for a rest: in summer, the hillsides are covered in a thick carpet of wild blueberries.

When to go

Most holidaymakers visit in summer months when it’s generally hot and dry. But the uninterrupted sunshine of southern France is not guaranteed. It can rain, even in July. The weather cools perceptibly in late-August: local winemakers cast anxious glances at the sky and tut-tut at the billowing clouds. By early September, you begin to smell autumn in the air.

The region is best avoided in winter: days are long, dark and bitterly cold. The temperature often falls to minus 10.

Getting there

Plane

If you are flying to France, Paris’s two airports are the nearest and most convenient hubs for Burgundy. But you’ll still need to hire a car or take the train to reach your final destination.

Train

The high speed TGV trains leave from Paris’s Gare de Lyon: www.voyages-sncf.com. Burgundian destinations include Dijon (1hr35), Macon (1hr30), Montbard (1hr), Auxerre (1hr40) and Chalon-sur Seine (2hr25)

Burgundy’s regional train network, known as TER, is efficient and relatively cheap. It also links Paris with most of the principal towns. But dependence on the train will mean missing some of the region’s greatest draws, which are often accessible only by car.

For more information about TER, see www.ter-sncf.com

Car

Burgundy is approximately five hours drive from Calais, six if you’re heading to the south of the region.

There are two principal routes from the Channel ports, one via Reims and the other via Paris. I’d strongly recommend the former, taking the A26 motorway to Troyes and then branching southeast (if you’re heading for Dijon, Beaune or Tournus), or south (and then cross country) if your destination is Vezelay and the Morvan. French motorways have tolls: it costs about 25€ from Calais to Burgundy.

Getting around

The regional train service, TER, serves many towns in the region (see website address above).

Car hire is available in all the major centres. A car will give you greater freedom to explore the Burgundy countryside, especially out-of-the-way chateaux and villages. Even the most popular destinations, such as Vezelay, are only accessible by car. Car will also enable you to take home some of the local wines.

Note that most petrol stations are closed on Monday: don’t get caught with an empty tank.