Few four-star chefs are as hands-on as Roland Passot. Rather than just directing others, he's on the line nightly doing what he loves -- turning out modern versions of French food. While flavors are California light and fresh, portions are generous on his three- to five-course fixed-prices menus. Passot started the restaurant 24 years ago as a modest brasserie, then grew it into a luxurious space featuring wood paneling, bronze tinted mirrors and heavy draperies that help wall off what was once an open pass-through to the kitchen. The menu is extensive, with up to seven choices in each category; diners can mix and match to compose their menu.
Specialties: Warm pig's feet with sweetbread and lobster terrine; sauteed Burgundy snails in Pernod lemon butter; roti of quail and squab stuffed with mushrooms and wrapped in potato strings; warm Edam cheese souffle with fromage blanc sorbet.
Open for dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday.