At-Tujibi (1340 – 1360) describes a difficult period of political transition in Andalousia and the Maghreb, and the resulting insecurity did not lend itself to the flourishing of the region’s culinary arts. Free exchange if foodstuffs was reduced, and cooking was basic with palace chefs as well as housewives compelled to “make do” with locally available ingredients. According to At-Tujibi, diet was based primarily on cereals (wheat and rye) and legumes, with infrequent consumption of meat or fish.

Before independence (1956), as in all Muslim cities, religious festivals in Kairouan constituted an opportunity to escape the daily subsistence diet. Animal sacrifices allowed people at all levels and classes of society to enjoy meat, at least for a day or two. Other holidays were festive occasions, all constituting a sort of safety valve for a society otherwise accustomed to surviving on the bare necessities.

Holidays and festivals often revolved around different pastries and fritters. Ibn Razin suggests several recipes for pastries enjoyed almost everywhere in 13th Century Muslim West: sesame seed cakes, Halwa jiljilane-Halwa homsia, Halwa chamia, for example.

To Tunisia, for many ages a crossroads of different civilizations, Egyptians brought “Kaak au Sucre” (“Sugar cake’; note the etymology of the word “cake’); Persians contributed “Refissa”; Andalousians, “Kaal el warka”; and Turks, “Baklaoua,” “Samsa,” and “Ghraiba.”

In former times, eating was done with the hands; occasionally wooden spoons (“mghar fa louh”) could be used. Today’s diner expects forks (contributed by Europe) to be set on a low wooden dining table called a “mida” or “sofra.” After the call “Haya bismellah!” (“Come to eat in the name of God!”), everyone dips into a common food plate known as a “Kaasaâ” which can be made of wood or of copper (“Nhass”).

Below are mentioned some succulent, exotic, and unique dishes that constitute the singularity of Kairouan’s gastronomical culture. Note that apart from being used to make bread, wheat is also eaten in other forms, such as in “Assida,” a gruel still enjoyed for breakfast today. Another popular dish based on semolina or flour is “Assida Bidha” (“White Bidha”), often served with olive oil, sugar, dates, and dried fruits.

Mohamed Rebai
info@kairouan.org