What is "gong fu" tea?
The formal presentation of tea in China is known as "gong
fu". The term denotes skill from practice - the idea being
that expertise is derived not so much from learning as from
experience, that is: practice (which we could say in this case
does not "make perfect", but which is instead an end
in itself). While literally gong fu could signify the serious
practice of any art form, today "gong fu tea" is generally
used to refer to the more or less elaborate preparation of tea
using unglazed wares made of the special "purple sand"
clay of Yixing (pronounced "yee-shing") in Jiangsu
province. Indeed, success in gong fu tea requires patience,
attention to detail, and, of course, extended practice, but
the rewards are well worth the effort.
Where does the name "Monkey-Picked" come from?
Many people wonder why our most famous oolong is called
"Monkey-Picked". The name refers to the time when
the most highly prized oolong teas were harvested from wild
tea bushes found in the steep rocky mountain areas of China's
Fujian province. Stories describe dedicated tea aficionados
with trained monkeys that could climb up to the highest-growing,
most inaccessible plants and retrieve their precious leaves.
Since the modern cultivation of more hospitable gardens in
Fujian's famous Anxi county, monkeys have long since been
unemployed in the business of tea, but their services (legendary
or not) remain commemorated in the name of our "Monkey-Picked"
Tieguanyin.
Why is some tea so expensive?
The price of any particular tea is determined by many
factors, the most important of which boil down to the care
and skill with which the leaves are cultivated and processed
and the rarity of and demand for the finished product. The
highest grades of tea are invariably limited to very small
quantities (sometimes no more than a few pounds per year)
and can sell for many hundreds, even thousands of dollars
per pound. Most high quality teas sell for between $100 &
$600 dollars a pound; however it is possible to find quite
drinkable teas for less (and, conversely, mediocre products
for more). When broken down, however, it usually turns out
that the money spent on the small quantity of inferior tea
found in a commercial teabag is equal to the cost of good
quality loose tea. Even teas costing $200-$300 a pound don't
add up to very much per cup [and actually cost about the same
as (or less than) comparable servings of beer, wine, fruit
juice, and other specialty beverages... including coffee.]
In addition, high quality tea leaves may, in most cases, be
infused several times - adding to their superior value-for-money.
How can I tell if a tea is high quality?
High-grade green, white, oolong and black teas usually
display the following characteristics:
- intact leaves of uniform size & shape, accompanied by "tips"
(i.e. tea leaf buds) -
- full,
clean aroma without any stale or rancid smell -
- clear,
bright infusion which is vibrant and aromatic - fresh, full-bodied
flavor which lingers on the palate
Tea that is bitter, watery and/or has no aftertaste or "finish"
is inferior or incorrectly prepared. Aside from this negative
generalization, however, there are very few hard and fast
rules for judging tea. Some has a wonderful aroma with little
body, some looks beautiful but tastes bitter, while others
look inferior but produce a subtle connoisseur's infusion.
The only way truly to develop expertise in tasting tea is
to build up experience (and thus a broad frame of reference)
by drinking as much and as many teas as possible. Following
this path, your faculty of discernment will grow slowly, but
surely.
What is the significance of the elevation at which tea is grown?
A lot of fuss is often made about whether a tea is "high-grown"
or not (particularly in the case of oolongs)... and the fuss
is not for nothing. The advantage of mountain-grown tea is
that the coolness of higher elevations slows down the growth
of the tea plant (which can be quite rapid in hotter, lower-lying
areas), causing the leaves to develop more slowly, and, thus,
to be more flavorful (one reason why the first crop -or "flush"-
of the season is so highly prized).
How much caffeine does tea have?
Caffeine is a natural component of the tea leaf, and,
unless it is artificially removed, it is present to some extent
in all tea. By comparison, it should be noted that tea in
general contains significantly less caffeine than coffee.
Most research suggests that the more oxidized (i.e. darker)
a tea is, the more caffeine it contains, but many other factors,
such as leaf size, water temperature and steeping time, are
just as important (making useful generalizations about the
content and effect of caffeine in tea nearly impossible).
It can be said, however, that unlike coffee, tea is known
not only for its stimulating effect, but also for its calming
and soothing properties... making the only real test of any
particular tea's caffeine potency to brew it using your preferred
method and try it yourself.
Can regular tea be decaffeinated at home?
Due to the water-solubility of caffeine, much of it is
extracted from the leaf in the first 20-30 seconds of infusion,
allowing you to "decaffeinate" it yourself by steeping
the leaves for approximately a minute and discarding this
first infusion. Then proceed as usual, allowing slightly more
time to achieve the desired strength. (Employing this method,
of course, will naturally sacrifice some flavor.)
What are the medicinal benefits of tea?
Scientific research suggests that tea is beneficial to
health in many significant ways:
- Cardiovascular
- Epidemiological studies have shown a correlation between
drinking black tea and lower incidence of heart disease,
probably because the polyphenols in tea prevent the peroxidation
of low-density lipoproteins (LDLs), which is the precipitating
factor in the development of arterial plaque.
- Anticancer
- Although epidemiological studies remain inconclusive,
laboratory studies strongly suggest that tea inhibits tumor
growth. It has definite antioxidant properties, although
there may be other reasons for its effect. Most research
has focused on the prevention of lung, throat, and gastrointestinal
cancers, but evidence also suggests a positive effect on
skin and liver cancer.
- Nutritional
- Puerh and oolong teas have been shown to lower cholesterol
levels, although green tea has not been shown to have the
same effect. Tea may also protect teeth, as it can contain
fluoride as well as inhibit glucosyltransferase, the enzyme
that helps bacteria adhere to teeth, thus leading to tooth
decay.
Does tea contain tannin?
No. The association of "tannin" with tea is
actually a misnomer. The chemical components of tea sometimes
referred to as "tannins" are actually polyphenols,
not tannic acid.
What are the best teas to drink with milk & sugar?
Yunnan black teas are known for their robust flavor and
stand up well to milk, as do special black tea blends (often
designated as "Breakfast" teas) designed to be taken
with milk and sugar. Flavored teas such as Earl Grey, lychee
and mango are fairly sweet on their own, but a small amount
of sugar or honey can enhance their flavor if you are so inclined.
Green, oolong, and Puerh teas, if they are of at least moderate
quality, should not require the addition of milk or sweeteners.
The final arbiter of taste, however, is, of course, the individual
tea drinker.
Where does tea come from?
All tea is produced from the leaves of the tea plant,
a flowering evergreen shrub native to China and now grown
in dozens of countries on several continents around the world.
In the oldest and most famous book of tea -the "Tea Scripture"-
written over 1,200 years ago, author Lu Yu describes tea as
a "treasured plant from the south", and it is China's
southwestern provinces of Sichuan and Yunnan which are generally
regarded as the "birthplace of tea". (In fact, Yunnan
today is home to many "King" tea trees, some nearly
2,000 years old!) By comparison with its ancient tradition
in China, tea is a relative new-comer to other countries now
famous for its production, including Japan (where tea arrived
along with Buddhism about 1,000 years ago) and India (whose
cultivation of tea dates to the mid 1800s).
Why do we call tea "tea"?
In China, tea is most commonly known as "cha". The
reason we call it by another name reflects an interesting
mix of history and geography. When tea first reached European
markets in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, it came
from the trading port of Amoy (present day Xiamen) in Fujian
province. In the local Fukienese dialect tea is called "tey"
rather than the more common "cha", so in western
Europe, and later the United States, it was the word "tea"
that stuck, while other countries, such as India, Russia,
and Turkey, were introduced to tea as "cha" by traders
travelling over-land along the Silk Road.
How is tea produced?
All tea comes from the same plant, but that is where the similarity
ends. The many different classifications and varieties of
tea are produced through differences in cultivation, harvesting
and processing. Teas from different regions have different
flavors, as do teas picked at different times of the year.
Which leaves are selected also makes a difference as some
teas are constituted mainly by unopened buds (such as Dragon
Well and Silver Needles) while others consist of more mature
leaves which are subjected to vigorous processing (as in the
case of most oolongs and Puerh teas). One of the most important
factors in creating these distinctions is the degree of oxidation
(popularly, but incorrectly known as "fermentation").
Tea leaves are prepared for oxidation by agitation (i.e. some
form of shaking, tumbling or rolling) which bruises the cells
in the leaf, breaking them down so that polyphenols and the
enzyme polyphenol oxidase are mixed and exposed to the oxygen
in the air (hence "oxidation"). Polyphenol oxidase
acts as a catalyst, greatly accelerating the oxidation of
the polyphenols, causing the leaf to darken (like a bruised
apple or banana) and develop new aromatic and flavor characteristics.
Subsequent heating (i.e. "firing") of the leaf destroys
the enzymes and effectively halts the process of oxidation
when the desired aroma and flavor have been achieved.
How long will tea remain fresh?
Except for Puerh tea (a specialty of Yunnan province which
is purposely aged), all teas have a definite shelf life. As
a general rule, more oxidized (i.e. darker) teas keep longer
than greener varieties. Green teas are best consumed daily
(or at least somewhat regularly) until they are gone since
trying to ration them out simply allows the leaves to lose
their fresh aroma and flavor. Oolong tea lasts slightly longer
- 2-4 months if stored well (see below), while black tea can
remain good for a year or more. Even green tea can retain
its freshness for up to a year if it is purchased in bulk
in its original packaging and stored unopened in a cool, dry
place until ready for drinking.
How should I store tea?
As mentioned above, it does no good to try to make good
tea last longer than one should reasonably expect. This simply
allows good tea to become not-so-good tea, but proper storage
will definitely help preserve it as fresh as possible as long
as possible. Tea has many enemies, the most significant of
which are: light, air, moisture, odors, and, of course, time.
Tea should always be kept sealed in a clean, odor-free, airtight
container, and should be opened as little as possible to minimize
its exposure to the air. The container itself should be as
small as possible to keep the amount of air in contact with
the leaves to a minimum and should be kept away from light,
heat and strong odors. (The flavor of tea is very easily influenced
by the smell of anything in its vicinity... which is a good
thing when it's jasmine flowers, but bad in the case of fish
or curry powder.) If possible, the original packaging in which
a tea is purchased should be retained and used to hold it
inside its storage container.
How should I clean my Yixing teaware?
Vessels made of the special earthenware clay of Yixing
in Jiangsu province should never be washed with soap. The
dyes, fragrances and harsh detergents found in most household
cleaning products are readily absorbed by the unprotected
porous surfaces of Yixing teaware, and thus can negatively
influence your tea drinking with the undesirable taste and
smell of soap. For this reason, a simple, but thorough rinse
should be all that is required to clean your teaware after
use. (Allow it to sit uncovered until completely dry since
it can develop a musty smell if put away damp.)
What is a "tea ceremony"?
The term "tea ceremony" is used most often today
to refer to the tea ritual of Japan, known as "Cha-no-yu"
or "Chado" (from the Chinese "Cha Tao"
meaning "way of tea"). The Japanese tea ceremony,
as it is performed today with powdered tea whisked in a bowl,
was consolidated in the 16th century by the famous tea master
Sen Rikyu. Its form and équipage are based on Tang
dynasty Chinese models and are heavily indebted to Lu Yu's
classic "Tea Scripture". ©2OO1-2002
Imperial Tea Court. All rights reserved.