Fred Nicole has established a new V15 called Le Boa, a problem located at … Wait a minute.  Fred Nicole?  Isn’t he twice as old as Daniel Woods?  Could he really be getting stronger?

“I wish I would, but unfortunately I don’t think so,” says Nicole. “But you can still improve in many other things rather than pure power and be a much better climber.”

Still improving at 41 years old, Nicole continues to develop elite rock climbs with his most recent being the 16-move boulder problem Le Boa, which he suggests to be 8C or V15.

[Fred Nicole on Le Boa.]


Fred Nicole learned to climb in his native Switzerland as a teenager and it wasn’t long before he began to push the boundaries. Nicole is responsible for establishing the world’s first V13, V14 and V15. In 1992 he made the first ascent of Les Danse des Balrogs (V13) in Branson, Switzerland. In 1996, he established Radja (V14), also in Branson. In 2000, he completed Dreamtime (V15).  (Interestingly, both Radja and Dreamtime held their grades until holds were allegedly chipped, dropping each problem down a grade).  

Though Nicole is  best known for his contributions to bouldering, he is also prolific as a roped climber, having established the world’s third 9a (5.14d)—behind Wolfgang Gullich’s Action Directe (1991) and Alexander Huber’s Om (1992)—with Bain de Sang, a name that describes the “blood bath” that ensued when Nicole sliced his finger on the viciously sharp crimps during the first ascent. Nicole’s routes, typically, are bouldery in nature such as his hardest hybrid boulder/sport climb, L’isola che non c’è (5.14+), Switzerland.


Such bouldering destinations as Hueco Tanks, Texas, and Rocklands, South Africa, bear the names of beautiful and often extremely difficult Fred Nicole boulder problems.  Lines such as Hueco’s Terremer (V15), and Diaphanous Sea (V12), or South Africa’s Amandla (V14), and even Fontainebleau’s iconic Karma (V11) leave behind a legacy of visionary first ascents that forever changed the sport of bouldering.

Rock and Ice caught up with Nicole at his home near Zurich, Switzerland.

How did you find Le Boa?

The last five years, I was looking for new possibilities close from where I live. Unfortunately there is really not much around Zürich. But within a 45-minute drive we have a few rocks where you can boulder- when you put aside that they are very often wet. Most of these places are on private properties; therefore I don’t make a lot of advertising about them. Except these minor details, bouldering there can be really good.

I found the line two years ago, after my ascent of a problem called L’isola che non c’é, located as well in one of those areas.

Can you describe the problem?

It is a sit-down-start, with the first four moves being the hardest ones. Four more moves traversing to the finish of another boulder problem. It is around 16 moves in total, really consistently hard on pockets and pinches.

When did you finally send Le Boa?

It was the 24th of March, after a surprisingly dry period for northern Switzerland. Just before leaving for India.

How did the actual ascent feel?

It felt hard to me, pocket climbing being not my style.  You need precision and accuracy.

How hard do you think Le Boa is?

Concerning the grade and the difficulty, as always it is only a suggestion. Lately I’ve been avoiding grading, which is much more convenient, but why not: it felt around 8c. So let's see…

Do you view Le Boa as a milestone or is it special in any way?

I’ve never thought this way. It felt good doing it. Of course it is special for me, as I spent a lot of time there, but to call it a milestone is maybe a little bit exaggerating. Let’s put it this way: for the 40 year-old Fred it felt great!

Have you ever climbed any of John Gill’s boulder problems?

During one of my last visits to the U.S., we went to Colorado. Chuck (Fryberger) showed us many different places there. We met John Gill; we had a great time and it is a big honor for me to have met him. We went to the Ripper Traverse and the Little Owl Canyon. It was cool to climb on these problems. We went to Horsetooth too, and I was impressed by the commitment of many of those problems like Pinch Overhang (I jumped down). Some of those old lines are of a great quality.

If you could only climb one boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, what would it be?

I don’t think I can answer this question, because climbing in Hueco was important for me for the context and not only for the lines. I had a great time there with the people I met and I can’t reduce all those experiences to a name. Of course the lines are great but what is really good there is the quality of the rock and the variety of movements the rock offers you.

You like to read.  What are your top five favorite books?

I read so much and since so many years that it’s almost as hard as to choose my best boulders. Just as an idea of what I like to read:  La zone du dehors, Alain Damasio; Meu pé de laranja Lima, Vasconcelos; The Lord of the Rings, Tolkien;  A Wild Sheep Chase, Àruki Murikami; City, Clifford Donald Simak.

Any other hobbies?

Sometimes drawing and painting…But it is as hard and frustrating as climbing, luckily not as physical.

What is a typical day for you?

Coffee, breakfast and spend a lot of time to discuss with Mary (my girlfriend) where to go climb or boulder.

[Le Boa. Photos courtesy of Mary Gabrieli.]