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Like a Fine Wine, Fred Nicole Gets Better with Age: Interview
Fred Nicole has established a new V15 called Le Boa, a problem located at … Wait a minute. Fred Nicole? Isn’t he twice as old as Daniel Woods? Could he really be getting stronger?
“I wish I would, but unfortunately I don’t think so,” says Nicole. “But you can still improve in many other things rather than pure power and be a much better climber.”
Still improving at 41 years old, Nicole continues to develop elite rock climbs with his most recent being the 16-move boulder problem Le Boa, which he suggests to be 8C or V15.
[Fred Nicole on Le Boa.]
Fred Nicole learned to climb in his native Switzerland as a teenager and it wasn’t long before he began to push the boundaries. Nicole is responsible for establishing the world’s first V13, V14 and V15. In 1992 he made the first ascent of Les Danse des Balrogs (V13) in Branson, Switzerland. In 1996, he established Radja (V14), also in Branson. In 2000, he completed Dreamtime (...
Evergreen: Lynn Hill Climbs Living in Fear
Between juggling four part-time jobs and single motherhood, Lynn Hill has still found time to send Living in Fear (5.13d) in Rifle, Colorado.
“I just turned 50 so I wanted to try something hard," says Hill. "Living in Fear addressed my weakness because you can’t recover easily on the route.”
Hill tried the route last spring and returned to Rifle this fall extremely motivated, climbing the route on September 14.
She says, “I’m really psyched to climb more. My 8-and-a-half year old son Owen started school again so I have a little more time to focus on climbing.”
Hill had fallen from Living in Fear’s notorious "5.8 Dyno" four times the previous weekend.
“Having the power, precision, and timing for the dyno was challenging,” she said, “but the biggest thing for me was learning to relax on the route and recover" on the poor rests available.
Impressively, Hill managed to send the route on her third redpoint burn of the day, when many would be tired or giving up.
Always moving forward, Hill, who has climbed 5.14a in ...
TNB: Soloing With the Brew Monkeys
The scene seemed familiar, as if I was at a bar on this Saturday night, dressed in my newest jeans and designer boots, waiting for the perfect guy. But instead of a bar I leaned into a vertical wall and instead of holding a drink, I held cold granite. Nevertheless, on the granite face of a solo climb, I heard the words, “Do you want a drink?”
Revenge is Hers: Jen Vennon sends Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b)It must be hard to misbehave at naptime if your Kindergarten teacher has climbed 5.14b. Well Jen Vennon’s students are probably silent because Saturday, September 17, she put to bed her hardest project yet: Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b), Rifle, Colorado. Vennon’s rainy-day ascent of this kneebar-intensive route makes her the first female to climb 5.14b in the Rifle.
9-Year-Old Girl Youngest to Climb DiamondEvery day Stella Noble, of Boulder, Colorado, looked at a photo of the Diamond face of Longs Peak in her father's office. She says, "He climbs it every year and I wanted to climb it, too." On August 31, she got her wish. Stella and her father, Forrest, completed the Casual Route (5.10a) making her the youngest person ever to climb the Diamond, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Ranked number one in the country for sport climbing in her age group, Stella recently competed in the Teva Mountain Games, winning the gold medal for ages 11 and under. She is a member of the ABC climbing team based out of Boulder, Colorado. [Stella Noble. Photo by Walter Workman.]
Stella and her father, with their friend Fredrik Marmsetter, climbed the Diamond as a trio. Forest says, “I took some precautions, like climbing as a threesome with Stella in the middle. That way someone was always with her at each belay and at all times in close contact with her.”
TNB: Missing
It was autumn, and I walked into the Alcove in the crisp air expecting only the usual evening climbing and restoration. In the middle of the floor of this highly traveled little rock corner, just 12 feet tall but steep, was a stone hump, currently disturbed by rock dust, perhaps a few shards, and a large sign, block-lettered and firmly duct-taped down: “WHOEVER DID THIS, you are an ASSHOLE.” It was signed “Rick West.” “Ohhh, you’ve never met Rick West?” people always said of this denizen of the Alcove. “Just wait.” I’d heard enough clues to envision a Hell’s Angel type, sleeveless and bicepian and probably scowling with exaltation for the rock. Now I quailed, because he was livid—and at me.
Siegrist Sends Bad Girls Club and The Crew: Interview
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