Latest News

The lead World Cup this weekend, the first such since 1991, will
Do longstanding projects always morph into V15s when Daniel Woods
The new issue of Rock and Ice is out, and features Ammon McNeely's
Mayan Smith-Gobat has posted on Facebook that she sent the 3,000
Jonathan Siegrist found the dreaded Rifle kneebar. Yep, sure enough,
The Slovenian Charakusa expedition of 2011 was successful in
  Registration has closed for the lead-climbing World Cup this

How To Climb

Click here to learn more about climbing Click here to learn more about climbing

John Long Stories

Outrageous tales of deprivation, desperation and life on the high lonesome from the master storyteller.

TNB: THE LONELY ROAD

In my desk here at work, I still have the license plates to my old whip, a beater Nissan Sentra that I sold only just a few years ago to a Latino father who was wearing a kitschy leather jacket with a giant Mickey Mouse head on the back. He paid me $800 in cash, with the last $200 coming in the form of crumpled $5’s and $1’s. At the time, the car had 270,000 miles, a portion of which I had racked up in my semi-annual commute from the Northeast to Yosemite. Its engine had been reconstructed at least once, it never started if it was too cold (below 40 degrees) and its chassis was the automotive version of Frankenstein with all its welded sutures.

Road tripping is the quintessential American pastime, especially for climbers. The American landscape pulsates with vital energy that it expresses in its myriad and varied vertical rock formations. As climbers it is our birthright to trace these meridians for as long as we can, on as little money as we can, all in order to chase that which we desire most.

I spent many hours alone in that Sentra, half-hypnotized by the barren ...

 

Neccessary Evil Repeated by J-Star

Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Necessary Evil (5.14c), one of the hardest sport routes in the country. This king line on the Blasphemy Wall of the Virgin River Gorge was bolted by Boone Speed, who worked on it and came close, but never managed to send it. The route was  first climbed by a teenage Chris Sharma in the late 1990s, and at the time remained one of the hardest in the country. The route begins with 30 feet of hard V-double-digit crimping, and then links into the crux section of Route of All Evil (real deal 5.14a).

 

Read more...

 

TNB: Why People Climb Mountains

Everyone knows that alpinism involves suffering. You walk uphill in atrocious weather carrying heavy packs. The higher you go the harder God closes his hands around your throat. You don’t sleep, food tastes like Pelspan, your brain swells, you cough up chunks and work like an oilfield roustabout. Even if you’ve never swung an ice axe you’re sure to appreciate the misery this special breed endures for the summit. That’s because any account of any climb up a high mountain is loaded with depictions of anguish, death and black digits hanging off appendages like little sizzlers left too long on the barbi.

What climber’s don’t dwell on is the bliss. Sure, people are happy when they arrive at the top and they write about that. But the period of addled summit elation only lasts as long as it takes for you to remember that you still have to find your way down and through the crevasses and back to some sad, stinky little tent and another meal of packing peanuts and cardstock. That’s not the bliss I’m referring to.

Read more...

 

Daniel Woods' Next Hardest Project

Very nice video from Courtney Sanders of Daniel Woods working a "V15 into a V13" in Hueco Tanks. Looks like he has his work cut out for him! Hope he takes it down soon. Good luck Daniel!

 

 

Doing Your Best in a Climbing Comp

Climbing comps are great and fun events that allow you to test yourself, meet new partners, improve your game and try to climb hard. Just about every gym in the country now hosts bouldering comps for its members, and there are even great outdoor comp series such as the Triple Crown. Here are a few basic tips for preparing for a comp and climbing your best once there.

All Photos courtesy Pat Bagley

 

Read more...

 

TNB: Inglorious Suckers

Yesterday was Presidents’ Day, a mini-vacation originally conceived to honor George Washington that later morphed to include Abraham Lincoln, then all Presidents, even Nixon, but who knows that? Or cares? To most of us, the third Monday in February simply means we don’t get mail and don’t have to work.

Jefe and I took advantage of the break to put up a new mixed route, an M7 that took thin ice to rock then back to thin ice. Usually, on a local, roadside, one-pitch project like this we’d hike to the top, drop a toprope, do TR burns on it, figure out the bolt placements, drill them and finally redpoint the line.

Read more...

 

Dark Horse Video Stampede

Here is a great highlights reel from LT11 that captures the magic of this year's Dark Horse competition at MetroRock in Boston.

To read more about the event, Click Here.

 

2011 Dark Horse Championship & Behind the Scenes from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

 

Click Cover to Enlarge Read For Free

Click here for Archives

My Favorite 5.10
Fat City (5.10+), Shawngunks, New York
5.10 is the vanilla ice cream of American climbing. There are tens of thousands of 5.10s out there, ranging from elegant beauties to piles of choss. They can be long, short and in between. Trad, sport and sporty. They are a measure of competence for climbers new to the sport and the official gateway into the double-digits of our grade scale. They are
Latest Forum Posts
    • crevasse self rescue
    • Hi vaclimber great you like it, after seeing the video now I feel more secure to use the ATC this way and it is always good to have more alternatives

More Topics »

No Active Advert Groups
Ask Gear Guy
    • High performance shoes
    • You can't go wrong with either the Miura VS or the Solution. Both are high end sport shoes, and have velcro. Neither is what I'd describe as stiff, bu
    • Ice axe
    • Friends, I'm sorry, but the reply to my question about an old ice axe contained absolutely NOTHING about ice axes at all. It was about selling airjord

More Topics »