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TNB: THE LONELY ROAD
In my desk here at work, I still have the license plates to my old whip, a beater Nissan Sentra that I sold only just a few years ago to a Latino father who was wearing a kitschy leather jacket with a giant Mickey Mouse head on the back. He paid me $800 in cash, with the last $200 coming in the form of crumpled $5’s and $1’s. At the time, the car had 270,000 miles, a portion of which I had racked up in my semi-annual commute from the Northeast to Yosemite. Its engine had been reconstructed at least once, it never started if it was too cold (below 40 degrees) and its chassis was the automotive version of Frankenstein with all its welded sutures.
Road tripping is the quintessential American pastime, especially for climbers. The American landscape pulsates with vital energy that it expresses in its myriad and varied vertical rock formations. As climbers it is our birthright to trace these meridians for as long as we can, on as little money as we can, all in order to chase that which we desire most.
I spent many hours alone in that Sentra, half-hypnotized by the barren ...
Neccessary Evil Repeated by J-Star
Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Necessary Evil (5.14c), one of the hardest sport routes in the country. This king line on the Blasphemy Wall of the Virgin River Gorge was bolted by Boone Speed, who worked on it and came close, but never managed to send it. The route was first climbed by a teenage Chris Sharma in the late 1990s, and at the time remained one of the hardest in the country. The route begins with 30 feet of hard V-double-digit crimping, and then links into the crux section of Route of All Evil (real deal 5.14a).
TNB: Why People Climb Mountains
Everyone knows that alpinism involves suffering. You walk uphill in atrocious weather carrying heavy packs. The higher you go the harder God closes his hands around your throat. You don’t sleep, food tastes like Pelspan, your brain swells, you cough up chunks and work like an oilfield roustabout. Even if you’ve never swung an ice axe you’re sure to appreciate the misery this special breed endures for the summit. That’s because any account of any climb up a high mountain is loaded with depictions of anguish, death and black digits hanging off appendages like little sizzlers left too long on the barbi.
What climber’s don’t dwell on is the bliss. Sure, people are happy when they arrive at the top and they write about that. But the period of addled summit elation only lasts as long as it takes for you to remember that you still have to find your way down and through the crevasses and back to some sad, stinky little tent and another meal of packing peanuts and cardstock. That’s not the bliss I’m referring to.
Daniel Woods' Next Hardest ProjectVery nice video from Courtney Sanders of Daniel Woods working a "V15 into a V13" in Hueco Tanks. Looks like he has his work cut out for him! Hope he takes it down soon. Good luck Daniel!
Doing Your Best in a Climbing CompClimbing comps are great and fun events that allow you to test yourself, meet new partners, improve your game and try to climb hard. Just about every gym in the country now hosts bouldering comps for its members, and there are even great outdoor comp series such as the Triple Crown. Here are a few basic tips for preparing for a comp and climbing your best once there. All Photos courtesy Pat Bagley
TNB: Inglorious SuckersYesterday was Presidents’ Day, a mini-vacation originally conceived to honor George Washington that later morphed to include Abraham Lincoln, then all Presidents, even Nixon, but who knows that? Or cares? To most of us, the third Monday in February simply means we don’t get mail and don’t have to work.
Dark Horse Video StampedeHere is a great highlights reel from LT11 that captures the magic of this year's Dark Horse competition at MetroRock in Boston. To read more about the event, Click Here.
2011 Dark Horse Championship & Behind the Scenes from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo. |
- TNB: The Great Bicycle Heist, A Comedy of Errors
- From the Vault: "Cerro Torre Murdered ... Again?"
- Power Vid: Sam Davis Crushing in Hueco
- TNB eBlast: The Party Poopers
- TNB: To Sleep, Perchance to Dream
- TNB: After Messner, What?
- From the Vault: Sharma & the art of jeep maintenance
- Crushing Cresciano: Paul Robinson in Switzerland
- TNB: 2011 in Climbing: The Year in Review
- Wharton Claims Third Straight Win at Ouray Mixed Climbing Competiton