How to Climb
Black Diamond Camalot Review
Black Diamond Camalots
$59.50 to $109.50
Overall Grade: 5 Stars
Bdel.com
The Camalot was the original extended-range cam and, in many respects, remains the pick of the litter. Already the backbone of a lot of racks, Camalots still stack up well against all newcomers. Comparably priced, with an equivalent range and cam ratio, these puppies are as light and as strong as the best of the rest. In addition, Camalots have stood both the test of time, 19 years to be precise, and the stringent CE certification process.
Camalots outshine all competitors by offering the greatest number of sizes. Nine units protect you, from 13.8mm (tight fingers) to 195 millimeters (offwidth). No other brand offers this range, meaning the other cams will only serve as supplements to your existing rack.
In our tests, the new Camalots (they were overhauled about a year ago) worked equally well in splitters, bottoming cracks, pods and horizontals. Their syringe trigger was easy to use and the cams could be quickly placed. Camalots are ergonomic. They fit well in the hand and are easier to place than wider U-stem designs. A clever design point allows the stem to rotate in the direction of pull—the only cam to do so—preventing a unit from being torqued sideways even when you clip directly into the stem loop and lean.
From a purely subjective point of view, the Camalots felt solid and stable, and the testing we did, both in the field and on apparatus, bore out our gut instincts. Camalots remain the standard by which newcomers will be judged. —Jeff Jackson
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| Size | Price | Range (mm) | Cam Ratio | Weight (oz) | Strength (kn) | CE |
| Black Diamond Camalots | ||||||
| 0.3 | $59.50 | 13.8-23.4 | 1.69:1 | 2.5 | 8 | yes |
| 0.5 | $59.50 | 19.6-33.5 | 1.7:1 | 3.4 | 12 | yes |
| 0.75 | $59.50 | 25-41.2 | 1.64:1 | 4.2 | 14 | yes |
| 1 | $62.50 | 30-52 | 1.73:1 | 4.8 | 14 | yes |
| 2 | $62.50 | 37.4-64 | 1.71:1 | 5.4 | 14 | yes |
| 3 | $68.50 | 51-87 | 1.7:1 | 7.2 | 14 | yes |
| 4 | $78.50 | 71-114 | 1.6:1 | 9.8 | 14 | yes |
| 5 | $98.50 | 87-148 | 1.7:1 | 13.5 | 14 | yes |
| 6 | $109.50 | 114-195 | 1.71:1 | 19.8 | 14 | yes |
| Metolius Supercam | ||||||
| Small | $65.50 | 39.5-70.5 | 1.78:1 | 6.4 | 13.3 | no |
| Omega Pacific | ||||||
| #1 | $91.00 | 20-55 | 2.75:1 | 6.3 | 14 | yes |
| #2 | $98.25 | 25-64 | 2.56:1 | 7.3 | 14 | yes |
| Trango MaxCams | ||||||
| 0.5 | $59.95 | 19-33 | 1.73:1 | 3.8 | 9 | no |
| 0.75 | $59.95 | 23-41 | 1.78:1 | 4.3 | 10 | no |
| 1 | $69.95 | 25-51 | 2:01 | 5.1 | 12 | no |
| 2 | $69.95 | 33-65 | 1.96:1 | 6 | 12 | no |
| 3 | $69.95 | 49-87 | 1.77:1 | 7.8 | 12 | no |