How to Climb

FIXE ANCHOR STATIONS

www.fixeusa.com fixe-gear

5 stars
Climbers put A LOT of energy into going up. Coming back down is an afterthought, a fact often reflected in our hodgepodge of raggedy-assed, jury-rigged rappel stations that can range from confusing messes of tat to plant hangers to hardware-store chain and links. For shame!
It’s another fact that when you lower or rappel, you are most at risk. It’s dark and you’re tired, confused and in a big rush. Why add risk to an already dangerous proposition by using a bunk station? Starting now, let’s all vow to put in bomber, user-friendly and replaceable gear. OK ... good.
I recommend any of the myriad systems from FIXE Hardware, available in zinc-plated steel (the common steel finish found on bolts), stainless steel, or, in limited designs, Marine Grade A316 stainless steel meant to withstand the corrosive effects of seawater.
For applications outside seawater or often-dank environs, the zinc-plated steel stations are what you need, and are considerably less expensive than the stainless options. In plated steel, you’ll find every station configuration you can conjure, and then some. My favorites are the Chain Anchor, a hanger with seven-link chain and threadable ring ($8.95); the Ring Anchor ($3.95), a hanger with an 18kN-rated continuous ring that is the most budget-conscious option; and the Super Shut ($8.95), a gated hanger/hook that you just drop the rope into, no threading fuss required. Other systems include the Sport Anchor ($17.95), a hanger with fixed carabiner; the Traditional Anchor ($9.95), an equalizing unit with two hangers linked vertically with chain (this would be great for multi-pitch routes); and the V Anchor ($38), two hangers linked horizontally with a chain V. Note that, except for the Traditional and V Anchors, you’ll need two of each set-up.
For those of you in the southeast or northwest, where it still rains, you can get all of the stations in corrosion-resistant stainless steel. For highly corrosive salt-water environments, FIXE offers the 40kN Double Ring Anchor ($18.95) in marine-grade stainless.
With all hardware, note that you should match the metal of the bolt to that of the hanger, i.e., use only plated-steel hangers with plated-steel bolts, and stainless steel bolts with stainless hangers. When you mix metals, the bolt and hanger can be affected by galvanic corrosion, an electrochemical process that causes the metal to dissolve. Galvanic corrosion is a common concern for bolts placed near salt-water environments such as along the beaches of Thailand, where this is an everpresent concern. In fact, merely leaving an aluminum carabiner clipped to a steel bolt hanger can cause galvanic corrosion.
Thankfully, FIXE also makes bolts, and in three designs. Their Triplex ($5.20 to $5.80; available in 10mm and 12mm) is a simplified, stainless version of the Rawl/Powers 5-piece, but one that is fully removable, a necessary feature for changing out the station years down the road. The Wedge Bolt ($4.25 to $5.85; available in 3/8-inch and 12mm) is a much upgraded version of the threaded, end-clip style bolts you find in hardware-store bins. These you can’t easily remove, but if you drill the hole an extra 1/2-inch deep, you can remove the hanger and nut, countersink the stud, and patch the hole.
For folks in soft-rock areas, FIXE offers glue-in eye bolts in stainless, plated or Marine stainless, with or without a fixed rap ring, and ranging in price from $4.49 to $13.95. The glue is not included, but is available from FIXE. I’ve long been an advocate of glue-ins, finding them the longest-lasting of all anchors, although tricky to place and not suitable for on-lead bolting. All FIXE anchors and bolts are CE certified and batch tested. In many cases, FIXE offers their anchors in an optional camo tan.
Finally, FIXE just began producing its plated and stainless bolt hangers with 13mm (1/2-inch) holes, accommodating bolt shafts with true 1/2-inch diameters, or letting you insert a Rawl 5-piece without disassembling the bolt.
—DUANE RALEIGH