Often described as the world's greatest living explorer, Sir Ranulph Fiennes has dedicated his life to conquering continents and summits. Despite now being in his 60s, he is currently preparing an expedition to cross Antarctica during the 'wrong' season in temperatures of up to minus 80 degrees - something that has never been done before.

Rock and Ice has received word that Hampi village, adjacent to the world famous Indian bouldering area, has been ransacked in a government crackdown. This report just in from Ryan Haeseley, a climber and witness on the scene:

With only a few hours of warning, the residents of the village of Hampi were informed by district officials that their homes and businesses would be destroyed. At 5 a.m. on July 30th, earth-moving machinery began demolishing all of the buildings in Hampi’s main commercial strip as villagers looked on. The officials brought with them a strong police presence, arresting protesters en masse and taking them away in re-purposed buses. Within hours, the entire Hampi bazaar had been reduced to rubble, leaving hundreds of families without homes or jobs.

The demolition was approved under the auspices of purifying the town of unclean influences. In deference to its proximity to the massive Virupaksha temple, the sale of meat, alcohol, and narcotics has long been forbidden within the village limits. Supporters of the police action are arguing that vendors in the Hampi bazaar were providing these illicit goods to foreign tourists.

These accusations have been vigorously denied by local businessmen. “They were only selling fresh flowers, coconuts, agarbattis (incense) and camphor, which are part of the offerings to Lord Virupaksha, the presiding deity of the town. They sell sherbet and tender coconuts too to tourists,” said Surendra, speaking on behalf of the villagers.

Local officials have said that they have been under pressure from district politicians to relocate the village residents since the town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site over a decade ago. However, no plans were made prior to the demolition to relocate or compensate displaced residents. In the years since Hampi has become popular as a tourist destination, the value of property in the village center has risen sharply. It is likely that the demolition of the town was not so much an effort to restore the sanctity of the ruins, as an attempt to clear out low-income residents to make room for new commercial developments.

As of August 2nd, only the homes and businesses within the city center have been affected. The climbing hostel Goan Corner and its neighbors have not yet been targeted, although it is possible that that may change in the future.

—Ryan Haeseley

James “Jim” W. Ebert, climber, mountaineer and adventure guide, died unexpectedly while hiking Mt. Whitney with his son on Tuesday, July 26, 2011. One of the world’s most experienced outdoor guides, Jim was 64 years old and died from complications due to an enlarged heart.

In the superlative world of pinnacles, peaks and spires, we reserve our greatest admiration for those with the vision and courage to blaze the trail, send the new route or summit the untouched mountaintop. Yet in the pantheon of the great visionary adventurers of the 20^th century exists a fraternity of men and women whose contributions have been lauded in mere whispers; and in some cases have gone largely unsung. Theirs has not been a life dedicated to individual pursuits or admiration from their peers; theirs has been a life devoted to the pursuits and accomplishments of others around them. There is perhaps no better example of this than Jim Ebert.

Jim was a man of unmatched pedigree. His parents, John and Ede Ebert, were accomplished climbers who founded one of the most prolific climbing and mountaineering clubs in the world (Iowa Mountaineers, Inc). Jim and his siblings spent their youth in some of the world’s most beautiful places, learning from mountaineering elite like Petzoldt, Stettner, Gmoser and others. First ascents, new routes and “youngest to’s” became common taglines in Jim’s ever-growing bio as he climbed into adulthood. By his early twenties it was obvious that Jim was on a path to climbing and mountaineering greatness - less obvious was how his greatness would ultimately be defined.

Jim, like many others, was entranced by the sweet taste of glory at the top of the mountain, the bottom of the canyon and the end of a killer climb. But while many of his peers pushed their own personal limits, Jim committed his life to sharing that taste with others. He, no doubt, had the physical tools and elite education to become a legend on the rocks and trails. But Jim believed that the most stunning panoramas were more beautiful when shared with others. For thirty years Jim instructed, guided and trained thousands of people in all manner of outdoor adventure, while maintaining a perfect safety record. He developed the Iowa Mountaineers into the most active mountaineering club in the world, offered the Nation’s First Outdoor Toprope Instructor Certification Course, instructed the US Military in rock climbing and winter survival skills, led hundreds of first ascents and first American ascents, and was even a professional adventure and wildlife photographer and filmmaker.

For all the tally marks and belt notches, however, this is not how Jim Ebert will be remembered; those fortunate to have known Jim will be forever imprinted by his perpetual smile and inspired more by his heart’s ability to move mountains than his body’s ability to climb them.

Later in his life Jim became a tireless advocate for the disabled in the outdoors. For six years he was the Director of an Easter Seals Camp (Camp KYSOC) whose primary purpose was to provide adults and children with disabilities a fully accessible camping experience. Jim carried this experience a step further and created what may be his single most important contribution to the world of outdoor adventure: a non-profit organization called Alpenglow Adventures. He recognized that with all of mankind’s incredible accomplishments in the outdoors, most of the world’s most inspiring locations and trails remained inaccessible to those who could not walk the trails themselves.

Not one to ever leave a person behind, Jim felt that there was “no individual personal goal in the world that is more meaningful than to take someone who cannot walk to see [some] of God’s greatest and most scenic hiking destinations…around the world.” From 2008 through 2010 Jim led historic expeditions with participants who could not walk to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, the base of Havasu Falls, the highest summit of Kilimanjaro and along the entire length of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

Last week Jim’s wonderful journey in this world came to an end while he was scouting a Mt. Whitney trail with one of his sons for the next great Alpenglow Adventure. Perhaps the greatest words of strength and perspective since have come from his three sons, daughter and wife who have all echoed the belief that there is peace knowing that Jim moved on to his next paradise while doing what he loved most.

To have known Jim Ebert was to have truly known greatness.  I am thankful to have had the opportunity to know a man who lived his life getting others to the top.

Here are some links to Jim Ebert's most recent accomplishments:

Alpenglow Adventures - "Unstoppable"

Mt Kilimanjaro

Inca trail hike to Machu Picchu

“I would prefer it if there were not sharks in the water,” says Paul Robinson after going surfing on a rest day.

Robinson has been climbing in South Africa since the end of June, and has done more than surf: on July 27 he made the first ascent of a new problem he named A Simple Knowing (V15).  Robinson describes the route as a combination between The Island (V15) in Fontainebleau, France and Big Paw (V15) in Chironico, Switzerland.

He says, “I worked the line for six days and sent it on my seventh. The crux move alone took me four days to stick. The style is similar (to The Island and Big Paw) but the movements required much different techniques.”

Robinson is excited to keep looking for new, hard boulder problems all over the world, in his blog crediting the “exploration bug.” Over the next year, he plans on traveling to core bouldering areas like Switzerland, but also to less traveled areas like Japan.

“I have big plans to explore The States this fall/winter, Switzerland at the end of the winter, Japan and New Zealand in the spring, and back to Southern Africa in the summer for a ton more exploration of new countries!”

On his blog he says, “We all have to find our niche in climbing.” His is being outdoors while exploring new blocks.

Check out Robinson’s blog for more info on new routes and photos of his South African adventure. The Schengen Files, focusing on Robinson’s most recent trip to Europe where he boulders in Fontainebleau, France, and Ticino, Switzerland, is now available for DVD purchase and HD download here.

About those sharks? “Another statistic is that you are more likely to be killed in your car on the way to surfing than actually be attacked by a shark,” Paul says. Sounds like climbing.

Check out a video of Robinson sending Big Paw (V15) here.

Mike Foley says he tried the 5.15a testpiece Jaws II, at Rumney, not just in terrible conditions, but in “terrible conditions a lot.” His M.O, he says, was in “knowing that if the weather ever cooled off things would feel much easier by comparison." Something worked, as the 21-year-old from Lincoln, Massachusetts, has made the third ascent of the route, a standout even at Rumney, New Hampshire, a hot spot for climbing in the Northeast.

“The day I sent was the end of this huge heat wave," Foley says. "It went from being in the upper 90s to the mid 80s, so I had the illusion of good conditions.”

Jaws II is on the Waimea Wall, the crag with the highest concentration of hard sport routes in Rumney . The route was first sent as Jaws (5.14b/c) by Dave Graham in the late 1990s. After holds broke on both the upper and lower cruxes, the grade increased and the name evolved to Jaws II.  Now the route has one V12+ crux at the bottom and one V11 crux toward the top. In 2007 Vasya Vorotnikov claimed the first ascent of Jaws II, and Daniel Woods snagged the repeat in 2010.

After sending the hardest route in Rumney, Foley could be seen as out of projects. But, Foley says, “There are tons of moderates left for me to do at Rumney! I’m always psyched to climb and hang out even if I’m not sending hard. And there is always The Fly. Definitely not a summer route.” The Fly (5.14d, V13) is a short sport route/boulder problem, located a couple-hundred feet from Jaws II, and has only had a handful of ascents, by climbers like Tony Lamiche, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods.

Watch a video of Foley sending Jaws II here.

Walking through the town of Arco, Italy, home to the Arco Rock Masters climbing Competition and the Arco Rock Legends Award, I crane my head to examine the enormous portraits of the world’s best competition climbers and boulderers pinned to the stone walls of the town’s historical buildings.  My stomach grumbles from the 10-course meal and mid-day champagne and wine consumption that the jury was treated to after two hours of deliberations over the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award, sometimes known as the “Oscars of Climbing.” The Salewa Rock Award is presented to the climber who distinguished his/herself, over the past year, on bolted sport routes and/or bouldering,. Judges also take into account style and ethics. The La Sportiva Competition Award is presented to the climber who has distinguished his/herself as the most prominent competition (Lead, Boulder, Speed) during the last season.

As an alpinist, when asked to sit on the jury for the Arco Rock Legends Award, I had to do my research to understand this microcosm of talented climbers.  Though I was quickly immersed as I joined team America for dinner my first night in Arco.  Sitting across from Sasha DiGuilian, Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, and Emily Harrington, I began my introduction to the minds and climbers who excel in this world.  The conversation focused intently around the successes and failures of the day’s qualifications, the upcoming semi-finals and finals, the following day’s training regimen and the next  few weeks of European competitions.  I quickly felt old at 33, and witnesed a focus, determination and discipline, as well as talent, that I would never have.

The morning jury deliberations began.  Twenty-five journalists from a wide variety of countries sat around a large conference hall and pounded ideas back and forth.   The votes were set and the decisions were in but the announcements would wait for later that evening.

The skies cleared in time for the awards ceremony and the seats filled with passionate sportsmen and women anxious to hear the winners of this year’s awards. Kay Rush, the multi-lingual presenter who also held the microphone and easily the attention of the crowd at the Piolets D’Or in Courymayer this year, quickly worked through the formalities to the awaited moment.

One by one the candidates for the Salewa Rock Award filed onto the stage providing a strong presence of talent and accomplishment.  Sasha DiGiulian was there from the USA, an 18-year-old budding talent, who redpointed two 5.14c’s and onsighted a 5.14a in a month (accomplishments matched by few women in the history of sport climbing).  Gabriel Moroni from Italy was nominated for his consistent and steady growth and improvement as a climber. He has, in the past year, repeated some of the classic European test pieces as well as establishing some of his own. Timid, and tousle-haired, 16-year-old Enzo Oddo joined the athletes, easily pulling at the heart strings of the crowd, as his youth and innocence radiate in addition to his myriad groundbreaking  accomplishments.  He joined the crew with a jog across the front of the crowd, having grown at least a few inches in the past year. His wild curly hair and humble smile contrasted with a roar from the crowd for his spectacular 2010 achievement of the same day 5.15b first ascent and 5.14c on-sight.  And finally, none other but Chris Sharma, with composure of the old hat six times nominated for this award, his calm demeanor and “old age” relative to the sport makes him feel like the granddaddy of the crew. Tension mounted and the envelope was opened with a roar and rightful recognition of Adam Ondra’s constant ability to top even his own performances.

Next, the La Sportiva Competition award saw Jain Kim from Korea join the stage for her staggering number of wins in all facets of competitions from bouldering, to lead, to speed for 2010, as well as the reigning Asian Lead Champion and silver medalist in bouldering.  The next nominee, Adam Ondra hopped from his seat on the left side of the stage to the right with a light and humorous sprint, nominated for his equally impressive strong medal performances in the world cup.  And finally Ramon Julian Puigblanque from Spain who carries a long list of victories in the world cup and European championships and is said to be one of the strongest competition climbers of all times.  The envelope was opened accompanied by a roar from all the loyal fans of Ramon Julian Puigblanque.

—Zoe Hart

"I don't think I have yet grasped the entirety of it," says Sasha DiGiulian, "but every time I look at my gold medal I feel a warm feeling of accomplishment." The 18 year old American put up an amazing showing in Arco, winning the overall gold medal for combined efforts in bouldering, lead and speed.

The 2011 IFSC Arco World Championships concluded this past weekend. The 10-day event represented all aspects of the competitive climbing scene and hosted, for the first time, the paraclimbing World Championship.

The final few events were the men’s lead final and the Duel, a special event-format, not part of the competitive circuit that determined the winners of this year’s RockMasters Award.

In the men’s lead final, held Saturday, Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP) took first place, being the only competitor to make it to the top of the wall. Puigblanque was the overall World Cup lead-climbing winner in 2010 and finished in second place in the first stop of this year’s World Cup circuit, in Chamonix, France. Jakob Schubert (AUT), who won that event and is second in the IFSC world rankings, finished in second place in the lead event at Arco. Adam Ondra (CZE) rounded out the podium in third place. Ondra, currently ranked third overall in the IFSC rankings, fell high on the wall after a display of his creative, instinctual climbing.

This year the RockMasters Award was determined by the Duel event, considered to be a demonstration more than a competition. The best 16 male and 16 female lead climbers went head-to-head, in a speed-style event. In finals, Sasha DiGiulian (USA) and Jakob Schubert took bronze, and Yana Chereshneva (RUS) battled Johanna Ernst (AUT) to take first, while in the Adam Ondra and Thomas Tauporn (GER) matchup, Ondra won decisively, winning the 2011 RockMaster Award. Ondra has also won RockMasters in both 2009 and 2010.

As the event closed, overall results were announced. Each athlete’s scores from boulder, lead, and speed events were combined to assign his or her overall ranking. Adam Ondra (CZE) took the overall gold for the men with a second place finish in the bouldering event and a third place finish in lead. American Sasha DiGiulian took gold for the women with a second place finish in the boulder competition and eighth place in the lead event. The Russian team took top spot in the team overall category with Poland in second and China in third.

DiGiulian says in regards to her thoughts on the event overall, "I'm quite relieved it's over because it was a stressful stretch of ten days. Grueling competition stress but simultaneously really fun because we had a good group of Americans there. A lot of the excitement of this experience is a result of the large crowd turnout and the general atmosphere of Arco." Anticipation is high to see how DiGiulian performs in the future because she has deservedly gained the attention of the international climbing circuit. Over the upcoming year, DiGiulian plans on spending some more time in Europe focusing on her climbing and competing internationally.

For a previous Rock and Ice article about the paraclimbing World Championships click here.

For complete men's lead results click here.

For the Duel event results click here.

For the overall results click here for men, here for women, and here for the National ranking.

Photos courtesy of News Power.

The finals for the women's lead event took place last night, July 22. Eight athletes, five from team Austria, proved to everyone why they deserved to be there. Angela Eiter was the only competitor to make it past a difficult dyno move near the top. The other seven athletes then, all received the same score and were ordered according to their qualifying positions. Although DiGiulian came in 8th, she climbed as well as everyone except for Eiter. The men's lead semifinal and final take place today, July 23. Be sure to watch both events, streamed live from ifsc.tv.

Women's final results:

1. Angela Eiter (AUT)

2. Jain Kim (KOR)

3. Magdalena Röck (AUT)

4. Johanna Ernst (AUT)

5. Katharina Posch (AUT)

6. Mina Markovic (SLO)

7. Christine Schranz (AUT)

8. Sasha DiGiulian (USA)

Photos of Angela Eiter and the top three, courtesy of News Power.

The Luckiest Day on Video. Watch it!

The women’s lead finals field has been decided at the Arco, Italy, World Championships, with America's Sasha DiGiulian in it. Eight women moved on from the semifinal round of 26 to today’s finals, July 22. Jain Kim (KOR) finished the semifinals in first place, making it to the last hold of the semifinal route before falling. Team Austria showed depth in its ranks with a full five team members making the cut.

DiGiulian qualified for finals, keeping her competitive momentum going in Arco, in 8^th place. She was second in women's bouldering.

Here are the women’s standings moving in to the final, held in Italy tonight but daytime 4:00 PM EST in this country.

1. Jain Kim (KOR)
2. Magdalena Röck (AUT)
3. Johanna Ernst (AUT)
4. Angela Eiter (AUT)
5. Katharina Posch (AUT)
6. Mina Markovic (SLO)
7. Christine Schranz (AUT)
8. Sasha DiGiulian (USA)

Watch the finals live at http://ifsc.tv/, or click here.