McColl Ties for Second and DiGiulian Makes Finals: the World Cup Semifinal Results
The crowd went wild as Sean McColl quickly launched past the highest point of any previous climber at today's semifinals of the lead World Cup in Boulder, Colorado. Falling just short of the top, McColl, of Vancouver, not only qualified for tonight's finals, he tied in the round for second place.
Hosting the first lead World Cup on American shores in over 20 years, the Movement Climbing + Fitness center presented two burly routes sitting center stage for the men and women who had advanced from the qualifying round.
The men’s route sported a tricky sequence that stymied the first few climbers at the fifth clip. The Americans Ian Dory and Carlo Traversi both put in solid efforts, and Matty Hong finally broke through and climbed past the sixth quickdraw, securing a spot as the only U.S. male in the eight-person finals field.
Romain Desgranges of France was the next climber past that crux bulge, pushing higher and falling just below the vertical ending. Then it was Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands who also climbed past the crux, only to fall just below the slab.
Canada's McColl, Ramon Julian Puigblanque (Spain), Jakob Schubert (Austria), and Sachi Amma (Japan) all climbed impressively smoothly through the crux of the route but all fell just one move from the top. These climbers are likely to be battling for the title tonight. Schubert enters this event with five straight previous wins, Puigblanque is the defending overall World Cup Champion, and Amma was second at the most recent World Cup, in Puurs, Belgium, only last weekend.
The women’s route also proved difficult for the first climbers of the day. The first strong attempt came from Angela Eiter of Austria, recent winner of the Arco World Championships, pulling over the lip to the final few moves to secure a spot in tonight’s finals. The route received its first flash from another Austrian climber, the teenaged Johanna Ernst. With perfect style, Ernst executed a heinous match on a tiny crimp mid crux before continuing on to the top.
America’s Paige Claassen and Chelsea Rude both made valiant efforts on the route, and Sasha DiGiulian from team USA climbed into the finals. The women’s semifinals ended with another impressive flash of the route, by Mina Markovic of Slovenia, who is second in the World Rankings and first in the IFSC rankings for ISFC World Cup comps. Eiter is third in the World Rankings, which include the World Championships, which occur only every other year.
[Four out of the eight finalists relax while watching the end of the Semifinals. From left: Jorg Verhoeven, Sean McColl, and Jakob Schubert, standing. Ramon Julian Puigblanque sits closest to the camera.]
The finals will be at the Movement climbing gym at 7:00 pm tonight and can be viewed live on WWW.IFSC.TV. The event is sanctioned by the IFSC and operated by USA Climbing.
Today's semifinals results are listed below. Top eight in each will continue to finals.
Men:
1 AMMA Sachi 1989 JPN
2 JULIAN PUIGBLANQUE Ramón 1981 ESP
2 MCCOLL Sean 1987 CAN
4 SCHUBERT Jakob 1990 AUT
5 VERHOEVEN Jorg 1985 NED
6 DESGRANGES Romain 1982 FRA
7 ROMAIN Manuel 1988 FRA
8 HONG Matty 1991 USA
9 TAUPORN Thomas 1991 GER
10 LECHNER Mario 1991 AUT
11 TRAVERSI Carlo 1988 USA
12 SUPPER Gauthier 1990 FRA
13 RAZTRESEN Jure 1993 SLO
14 WATANABE Kazuma 1985 JPN
15 MARIN GARCIA Eduard 1985 ESP
16 HOBERG Ben 1991 USA
17 SKOFIC Domen 1994 SLO
18 RIDGE Noah 1994 USA
19 JONASMCRAE Elan 1995 CAN
20 DORY Ian 1990 USA
21 OZAWA Shinta 1985 JPN
22 BECAN Klemen 1982 SLO
23 LEVIN Josh 1994 USA
24 SEWELL Ryan 1990 USA
25 SPANNUTH Ben 1988 USA
26 DOYLE Mike 1977 CAN
Women:
1 ERNST Johanna 1992 AUT
1 MARKOVIC Mina 1987 SLO
3 ODA Momoka 1994 JPN
4 DURIF Charlotte 1990 FRA
4 VIDMAR Maja 1985 SLO
6 EITER Angela 1986 AUT
7 DIGIULIAN Sasha 1992 USA
8 NOGUCHI Akiyo 1989 JPN
9 SCHRANZ Christine 1988 AUT
10 CIAVALDINI Caroline 1985 FRA
11 RUDE Chelsea 1986 USA
12 OTA Risa 1993 JPN
13 CLAASSEN Paige 1990 USA
14 POSCH Katharina 1994 AUT
15 MILLER Delaney 1995 USA
16 JOHNSON Alex 1989 USA
17 SAURWEIN Katharina 1987 AUT
18 KIERSCH Michaela 1994 USA
19 SNIEZEK Audrey 1971 USA
20 YIP Alannah 1993 CAN
21 HARRINGTON Emily 1986 USA
22 HENSLEY Tiffany 1991 USA
23 KELLEWAY Maegan 1993 CAN
24 METCALF Amelia 1995 USA
25 DOREY Alyrene 1981 USA
26 SUTTON Amanda 1991 USA
Last Updated (Monday, 10 October 2011 12:47)