Over recent weeks a new organisation, Wine Writers of New Zealand, has been formed. Like most of those involved in wine writing and reviewing, we signed up to show our interest in the networking potential of an organisation that would also encourage and endorse integrity and excellence.

One prominent New Zealand wine writer believes there is a growing perception that wine critics are in the pay of wineries. This brings to mind the thorny question of whether those who are seen as independent experts should be able to charge wine producers for their reviews.

The founders of this new group drafted a declaration of independence which is currently being signed up. All these writers believe that direct payments from wine producers to writers for published reviews remove independence that is crucial to a critic's integrity and create a potential for bias, whether actual or perceived.

Fair enough, and it seems timely to explain how we go about the reviewing process for this newspaper. When we took up the job we had to buy wine out of our own pocket for review purposes. Over time this changed, we became established and the wines that producers are interested in seeing reviewed have "poured" through the door. These wines are supplemented by those we are personally interested in investigating too.

Being given wine for review doesn't put us under obligation to review it favourably. We taste a huge number of wines over a year and choose to publish the reviews of those we think tick all the right boxes in terms of varietal quality and value for money at the price.

Where we are sent a media release and invited to request samples we may also do so. But the wine will still only get a review if we think it is good.

We don't use a rating system because that is the domain of highly qualified people and we see ourselves as wine enthusiasts; wine is a hobby, an obsession and an industry we work in.

What happens when we get invited to the long lunch? Nice to attend but we only accept invitations where there is no obligation to report back or review the wines. We do not accept invitations specific to us. The occasions where we are part of a crowd deliver no pressure and we can write them up based on their own merits.

If we review a wine and think it's exciting enough to want some for our cellars, we always pay for the product and stipulate we expect an invoice.

Recently Michael Cooper pointed out that if a reviewer of a book was paid by its publisher, that would not be acceptable to most of us and why should wine be any different?

The wines we review today are both firsts for Villa Maria. The company's first release of grenache was harvested in 2007; hand picked from 14-year-old vines nestled in a one hectare block of Villa's Ngakirikiri vineyard in the famous Gimblett Gravels of Hawke's Bay.

The fruit from this block has previously been blended with various syrah from the estate. Why make a standalone wine now? Nick Picone, senior winemaker, says that the 2007 harvest was of such exceptional quality the decision was made to craft a standalone wine.

The Reserve Malbec 2009 is one of the few "standalone" malbecs made in New Zealand. It is seven years since the first and last malbec released by Villa Maria, which appeared as a single vineyard wine from the 2002 vintage. Nick says that having spent time just last year in malbec's modern home of Argentina, he was pleased with the result.

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Malbec 2009 ($59.99) (100 per cent malbec)

Deep and dark crimson in the glass, this wine's lusty aroma is lifted and intense. Perfumed, rich and laden with plum, blackberry, white pepper, smoke and new leather notes.

The palate is sweet, ripe, drying and dangerous. The lively fruitiness is complemented by drying tannins, perfumed aromatics and firm acids. Weighty with well integrated flavours of plum, dark cherry and coca with some mint freshness towards the finish, this wine is finely structured and deserves its reserve status.

Excellent buying.

Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Grenache 2007 ($59.99)

(86 per cent grenache, 7.5 per cent syrah, 6.5 per cent malbec)

Another deep and intensely coloured wine, this time tending garnet/terracotta.

The aroma is an exciting blend of raspberries, subtle savoury oak and some refreshing herbal, mint notes.

The palate is smooth, zesty and generous. Moreish without being overtly luscious, this wine is dry as a bone, the firm acids and gentle spicy savouriness teaming up with ripe raspberry and old plum flavours.

Tremendous length and persistence of flavour are hallmarks of this wine. Marvellous.

- The Marlborough Express

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