Gran Fondo Colnago Los Angeles

Ernesto Colnago, left, founder of a high-end bicycle manufacturer, signs Arr Alinsod's finishing medal after the Gran Fondo USA Los Angeles on Sunday in Beverly Hills. (Gary Friedman, Los Angeles Times)

The penne Bolognese in the VIP tent derived from a 100-year-old recipe. The Brunello di Montalcino vintage was balanced and ruby red. But the defining Italian touch on Sunday for the first local Gran Fondo USA was sturdy 79-year-old Ernesto Colnago, the eponymous guru behind a brand of high-end Italian bikes.

More than 1,300 cyclists paid $125 to participate in the semi-competitive ride that began and ended in Beverly Hills and stretched 70 miles across flatlands and mountains. A 38.6 mile route also was an option. A steady stream of riders, as they finished, eagerly approached Colnago, who patiently autographed bike frames, helmets and saddles.

Despite the Italian accentuation, the event also embodied the classic Southern California combination of healthy lifestyle and enviable weather.

"Los Angeles is a sort of paradise, a heaven for cyclists," Colnago said in Italian. "Just think about it. Even some of the police go by on bicycles. And there are wonderful places by the seaside that are like the Riviera."

Conditions in his native Milan, Italy, are often rainy and foggy, he said.

Next to Colnago was a carbon fiber racing model that weighed just over 14 pounds and cost $14,000. A more expensive model, with battery-assisted gear shifting, is in development. At the lower end are $2,000 models made in — gasp — Taiwan. They are still quality bicycles, insisted Alessandro Colnago, the nephew of the founder.

Arr Alinsod, a Pasadena physician who claimed autographs for his saddle and frame, was reluctant to admit — in front of his wife — how many bicycles he owns. He copped to seven. They plan to watch this year's Tour de France in person.

Gran Fondos are weekly occurrences in Italy that mix recreation with a dash of competition. In this case, cyclists wore a computer-chip-equipped ankle bracelet that allowed time keepers to clock their six-mile ascent up Piuma Road in the mountains north of Malibu.

Athena Countouriotis, 39, a pediatric oncologist from San Diego, bested all other women at 28 minutes and 17 seconds in her Specialized Roubaix. She'd narrowly lost a recent competition in San Diego when her chain slipped twice. The first prize had been a trip to Italy — in an event from the same organizers, who will be in four U.S. cities this year. This time the prize was bike tires, a bike case and a helmet. The trips to Italy were distributed by random drawing.

"It was still well worth it," said the former marathoner, who has two children younger than two.

Rick Gordon, a 60-year-old local small-appliance merchant, felt much the same.

"The climbing is hard," said Gordon, who overcame Crohn's disease to keep cycling. "But once you get up there, you feel like: 'Man, this is it.' It's just beautiful. You can see the clouds and the ocean in the distance."

howard.blume@latimes.com