The Movable Buffet

Dispatches from Las Vegas
by Richard Abowitz

Category: Vegas Restaurants

Opening T&T;: tacos, Tila, and Criss Angel

October 23, 2008 | 11:03 am

Last night I went to the opening of T & T: Tacos and Tequila at the Luxor.

Tilatequila T &T doesn't exactly expand the culinary range of Luxor, as it replaces a La Salsa. But as with the rest of the redone Luxor, T &T makes the property more distinctive and appealing to adults, the drink being as much a feature as the food. I was not living in Vegas when La Salsa opened, but I doubt it had a red carpet and a celebrity host -- in this case, the appropriately named Tila Tequila. The usual collection of Luxor notables was also on hand, including Criss Angel and Carrot Top. Carrot Top takes press where he can get it. Angel mostly walked past the print media, but interestingly interacted quite a lot with one microphone-wielding young woman. He playfully mugged for her cameraman and took her microphone to address her audience directly. Otherwise, Angel  mostly bypassed the microphones and tape recorders. He  did, however, sign a few autographs for delighted fans. 

So, who was the camera crew in the media area who got the great Criss Angel exclusive? She was an employee of the public relations firm staging the event, so it was an illusion of an interview.

Actually, Norm Clarke had an interview with Angel yesterday. Interestingly, they do not discuss their conflicted history. But Angel makes some interesting claims about ticket sales for "Believe": "we're now the No. 1 or No. 1 bestselling show in Vegas." But on his blog, Vegas Happens Here, Steve Friess rightly questions the ability of Angel to make that claim in light of how little information about ticket sales is actually public. Also, Angel's truthiness seems a little questionable even regarding his fellow Cirque du Soleil shows. In checking with Cirque myself on Angel's claim, the company would go no further than: " 'Believe' is averaging higher or equal to our other top-selling productions in Las Vegas." But equal to other shows means that Angel does not necessarily have the top position even in the Cirque universe. In fact, in addition to claiming the No. 1 spot for "Believe," Angel told Norm he did have the top-selling Cirque show in their interview: "I believe we're beating 'Love' and 'O' and every Cirque show." You can see why Angel was in no mood to talk with press.

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Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised by T &T. It is such a vast improvement over La Salsa. T &T is offering a distinctive, well designed and carefully decorated original creation in place of a chain. Yet even beyond that basic improvement, a lot of creative energy has been put into T&T to make for an environment that will appeal on many levels.  There are elements from the nightclub world that  take advantage of the mezzanine view T & T has of the Luxor. There is a cozy section that has a sports bar feel (you could easily see T&T becoming one on Sunday afternoons).

(One question: anyone else there think that was Rick Rizzolo hanging out in from of T & T with a group of friends?)

This is all part of what has been a long-term project to reinvent the Luxor. Other examples of offerings include LAX nightclub, the CatHouse restaurant,  Liquidity bar and the arrival of Bodies: The Exhibition. But somehow the transformation of this one negligible chain restaurant into a tempting destination seems to sum up just how far the Luxor has come to jettisoning the kitschy image that had it associated with Circus Circus and Excalibur.

This property may still be a pyramid on the outside, but inside the Luxor is much closer to an offering to stack alongside Mirage or Palms in terms dining options, celebrities passing through and more.

Photographs by Sarah Gerke


Yellowtail at Bellagio: new does not mean original

August 12, 2008 | 10:32 am
 
Promotional Marketing and the places marketed in Vegas do not  value originality. We pay lip service to originality in press releases. It would demonstrate real originality not to do that. Every place is "unforgettable" and "refreshing." 

Yesterday I got an invitation to the grand opening of the nightclub company Light Group's new restaurant and bar, Yellowtail , on Aug. 29 at Bellagio. The marketing uses both "unforgettable" and "refreshing," as well as "unique," "innovative," and "exotic," as descriptions of menu items or amenities at  Yellowtail. 

But before anyone thinks this place really does offer anything not market-tested in Vegas, the same description crows this overall assessment that Yellowtail is made: "For the quintessential Las Vegas experience." The invitation included a tokkuri, a gourd used to serve sake.

Anyway, the tokkuri sent Buffet photographer Sarah Gerke to storage boxes to find a another tokkuri sent along in years past to promote the opening of OPM, a long gone nightspot at the Caesars Forum Shops. The space is now a nightclub called Poetry. Again, newer but not really different.

I also remember getting another promotional tokkuri, though sadly I could not locate it to complete the trio for the photo.

Las Vegas may always be building something new, but somehow the result is often a variation of the old and tested. Our edge can be less cutting than serrated. (photo by Sarah Gerke)

Company opens with celeb investors: Hilton, Lachey, Valderrama

December 3, 2007 |  1:41 pm

Companyredcarpet The opening of Company: American Bistro, the 200-capacity restaurant in Luxor, looked like a miniature version of a nightclub event, with a red carpet and celebrities who included a de rigueur Hilton sister.

The Luxor’s executive VP, Thomas J. McCartney, looked on bemused. “This is new to Las Vegas from a dining perspective. Restaurants have not only become a dining experience but an entertainment experience. The celebrity gives more appeal to a particular restaurant and defines the space.”

Celebrity chefs are old news in Vegas, but even with them, restaurant openings on the Strip used to always be about the food on the menu. But the opening of Company: American Bistro seemed to be taking its cue from the Vegas nightclub world.

And so, no surprise to discover that behind the restaurant was a hot Vegas nightclub company, Pure Management Group, and celebrity investors: Nicky Hilton, Nick Lachey and Wilmer Valderrama. So, while the celebrity investors walked the red carpet in front of the restaurant, the actual chef, Adam Sobel, was left alone to be involved behind the scenes in supervising the kitchen and food, which received little attention from the assembled entertainment press like US magazine that rarely covers a casino’s restaurant openings.

This is not PMG’s first restaurant on the Strip. They also own Social House at TI as well as two others. But Social House is most like the model for Company by taking the nightclub approach to promoting a restaurant.

Company is aided by sharing a casino with PMG’s new crown jewel nightclub LAX (where both Hilton sisters will be spending New Year’s Eve). In fact, a number of fans waiting at the red carpet barrier found out about the celebrity appearances from cards handed to them at LAX. Another successful mix is Tao at the Venetian, which has a restaurant and a hot nightclub.

The closer connection between nightclubs and restaurants is the obvious next step in Vegas dining. Or as Hilton said: “Dinner is always part of an evening out.” When asked why she got involved in Company, Hilton responded “What really attracted me were the people, Pure Group. They have LAX (at Luxor) and Pure (at Caesars); so their track record is first class.” 

Lachey too expressed a long-term wish to diversify into restaurants, while also crediting Pure as providing the deciding factor: “I’ve been approached about things, especially locally, a lot over the years. But the Pure Group has been hugely successful. It was being able to do it with Pure.”

Companycelebs Looking at the fans waiting to catch sight of a celebrity and the media frenzy at the red carpet, the Luxor’s McCartney said, “I think that this is going to grow.”

If so, there are still some kinks to work out. Some middle-aged fans figured out how to avoid the crowd at the red carpet altogether by simply booking reservations within the restaurant.

Unlike nightclubs, there was no VIP section at Company: American Bistro's tiny space opening night. So, Nicky Hilton sat near the front door. One tourist group arrived with cameras at the ready. The three women first approached the table with celebrity journalist Robin Leach and asked him to pose with every member, followed by asking Leach’s date for help taking a group shot. The trio then moved to the table with magician Criss Angel and began again. But they were asked to leave before reaching Nicky Hilton’s table.

“This was a mistake, with the open reservations and announcing the celebrities,” one restaurant manager said. “We are still learning to adjust to the marketing of celebrities instead of food.”

(Photos by Sarah Gerke)


Climatological vs. Vegas logical

November 20, 2007 |  4:10 pm
Pure Management Group has been hot on the Las Vegas Strip for so long that it's lost track of the seasons.

PMG, which owns LAX, Pure and many other hip resort nightspots in Las Vegas, is the unquestioned leader of Vegas nightlife. The newest opening by PMG is the restaurant Company: American Bistro at Luxor. The invitation to the grand opening on Dec. 5 promises, in all capitals, the way to "ESCAPE THE DESERT HEAT AND ENTER COOL CHIC."

FYI: The desert heat of Las Vegas on Dec. 5 has an average high of 59 degrees, but this would be at night, when lows average 38 degrees. But it sounds good.

"Entertainment" found with fast food

November 13, 2007 | 11:14 am
Just getting a burger at a local fast-food chain can turn up surprises when you live in Las Vegas.

Photographer Sarah Gerke discovered a handful of business cards available to all customers in full view of the Wendy's employees at the register.

But these cards are not supposed to be at a neighborhood Wendy's. Anyone who has walked the Strip is familiar with these business cards: They offer photographs of nearly naked women in provocative poses.

One typical card had a photograph of two ladies kissing along with a phone number and the words: "$200 for both of us." 

My favorite, though, was a two-sided card advertising photographs for Alison on one side and for Bella on the other. The photos appeared to be the identical woman, and the phone number was the same, too. But if you want to meet her as Alison, that costs "$125 No Hidden Fees," and to meet her as Bella costs "$150 No Hidden Fees."
While the Wendy's employees seemed to be fine with the cards being there, Gerke and I decided to take all these special business cards with us because there are a lot of kids in my neighborhood.

This morning I called Alison/Bella to find out what service she is offering with "No Hidden Fees," in her own words.

Despite the call coming in the early morning hours, way before traditional businesses open, the young lady did not seem surprised at all at hearing from me. At least not at first.

So what is available with no hidden fees? I was told "enterainment" by the lady who answered the phone. Follow-up questions, though, quickly brought my conversation with Alison/Bella or whoever she was to an abrupt end.

Interview with Mario Batali

May 31, 2007 |  8:33 am
Here is the rest of my phone interview with New York based chef Mario Batali, winner of the 2005 James Beard Award for "Outstanding Chef of the Year." Earlier this year he opened two restaurants, B & B and Enoteca San Marco, at the Venetian:
 
Richard Abowitz: You have two restaurants that you just opened at the Venetian this year. How did you go about making each of your restaurants in Vegas distinctive?
 
Mario Batali: Well, the B&B one looks understated and not nearly as outrageously Guido as the rest of the Italian restaurants out there do. The food is distinctly our style. We have chosen not to copy any real dishes from Italy although our food tastes more Italian than many others. At Enoteca we decided to create kind of a cafe style atmosphere very similar to what Wolfgang (Puck) has done. But I think our food is different. It is less Americanized. Though it is not traditional Italian, it is very real Italian food.
 
Q: How do you manage to maintain quality in Vegas while living in New York?
 
A: The way we maintain our quality out there, of course, is that we brought 45 people from New York to come with us out there.
 
Continue reading »

Mario Batali's top 5 cities

May 30, 2007 | 10:58 am
Mariobatali_gve9lgkeNew York based Mario Batali, winner of the 2005 James Beard Award for "Outstanding Chef of the Year," proved one of the last celebrity chefs to enter the Vegas market. But he did so with a vengeance this year, opening two restaurants, B & B ristorante and Enoteca San Marco, at the Venetian. Reached by phone he notes his choice of Vegas turns out to be no accident. "On close inspection of the rest of America the only scene that is close to like New York is Las Vegas. All the rest either go to bed too early or the don't start early enough or there just isn't enough people around to create the buzz we want."  Here is his list of top 5 cities for foodies.
 
1. New York
2. Portland and Seattle
3. New Orleans
4. Las Vegas
5. Philadelphia
 
As for Los Angeles, Batali notes: "The only reason we did a restaurant in Los Angeles is because my partner is Nancy Silverton, and I know she has the right spirit."
 
I am off to the Michel Jackson auction at the Hard Rock but expect more from this interview to appear on the Buffet.

photo by Evan Agostini/ImageDirect

The Strip Without Spinach

September 25, 2006 | 10:48 am

The E. coli spinach scare was quickly dealt with by Strip resorts. Everything with spinach vanished. Now, in a fight on the Strip, for want of spinach, Popeye would get his butt kicked by Bluto. But necessity has also created an opportunity for Vegas chefs to figure out how to live in a world without spinach.

The AP did a survey of Strip properties noting, "Leek has replaced spinach in an artichoke dip at Studio Cafe at MGM. And at FIX restaurant at the Bellagio, sauteed pea shoots are garnishing the scallops Benedict for now."


Ruth Brown Booted From Bootlegger

September 21, 2006 | 11:24 am

This year Hummer used Ruth Brown's "This Little Girl's Gone Rockin'" in a television commercial. I don't know if she gets paid for that. The music business has usually not treated well the singer once called Little Miss Rhythm. That was only her nickname. The more impressive nickname is the one given to her label, Atlantic Records, which thanks to all of Ruth Brown's hits in the '50s was known as the House That Ruth Built. Atlantic would, of course, go on to make mint in the '70s with bands like Yes, Led Zeppelin, and Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young. By then Atlantic (except for fighting with her over royalties) and everyone else in the business had forgotten about Ruth Brown.

Musicians and Brown's fans never forgot her, though, and her music career took her out of the 9-to-5 world again in the '80s thanks to fans like Bonnie Raitt and director John Waters (who put her in "Hairspray"). When I saw Etta James perform at the Hilton a couple years ago, Brown was in the audience and James talked of her not as a peer but as an inspiration.

All of this to say: one of the joys of Las Vegas has been that, health permitting, the 79-year-old Brown performed for free at The Bootlegger Bistro (South on Las Vegas Boulevard near the outlet mall) every Thursday night. But now the Bootlegger has not only fired Brown, they did it in a particularly humiliating way. Norm Clarke of the Review-Journal spoke to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame singer about the situation, and Brown told him: "I worked on Thursday, and I got a letter on Friday saying they were firing me."

The Bootlegger is now saying it was all a misunderstanding and they hope to bring her back for some shows. Whatever. Brown indicates to Norm that she isn't buying it and she isn't going back. I sure hope some other spot in Vegas understands the honor it brings to offer Ruth Brown a stage.


Wynn resturant Wins Coveted Rating

December 8, 2005 |  9:52 am
Alexstratta_ijbl9dkn Alex at Wynn has been given a AAA Five Diamond restaurant rating. It is one of only three restaurants in Las Vegas to be so judged the others (Le Cirque and Picasso) are both in the Bellagio. Chef Alex Stratta had previously been responsible for the Five Diamond restaurant Renoir (formerly in The Mirage).
(photo by Mark Boster/LAT)


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