As regular readers of this blog know, I think the single best show in Las Vegas is "Penn & Teller." There are some caveats that go with that. If you want a traditional Vegas show with feathers and lots of showgirls and peppy choreography go to "Jubilee!". Penn actually says during each performance that they hope the audience will think about the show later. There is some ambiguity to that statement, given that Penn also admits to the audience that he lies frequently to us. But I like to think he means that thought sincerely, and even if he doesn't, the show has always given me plenty to think about.
There is a bit they do on flag burning that is worth discussing with your friends. And, at a time when Vegas resort companies act like doing business with the Chinese government in Macau is as innocuous as doing business with Britain, Penn and Teller remind audiences each night about the lack of basic freedoms in the world's most populous nation. Then, while they are famous for revealing the secrets behind magic, the tricks they don't tell you about are mind-blowing. I have made a personal quest to try to figure out how they do "Magic Bullets."
Almost every other Las Vegas show has no greater ambition than to make audiences have an entertainment experience, leaving them happy enough and full of a love of life that they continue to drink, eat and gamble irresponsibly. But Penn and Teller are able to totally sidestep that. Yet, and this is what makes their show so great, they manage to do this in a way that neither dumb-downs the content of the show nor is in any way elitist. In that sense, they are pure Vegas. This is almost an impossible balance, yet they have been doing this act with seeming ease at the Rio for years. The show is entertaining even if you do not share or care about their convictions and have no interest in putting any more thought into the show than watching their impressive spectacle. An audience member can go to "Penn & Teller" and choose to leave happy and full of a love of life and thus continue to drink, eat and gamble irresponsibly. There is enough ambiguity that the audience can decide how to enjoy the show.
There are very basic things that make "Penn & Teller" the best show in town. They do a lot right. From comedy to fire-eating, they offer as much old-school vaudeville variety pleasures as any Cirque production, yet always make demonstrations of such skills connect to a narrative drive that propels their trickery. After more than three decades in show business, no one in town knows how to pace a show better. And that does not come from staying in a creative holding pattern that works for Vegas. They constantly change their show, yet, year after year, never does the pacing falter. This offers a pragmatic advantage in Vegas, where you market in part to convention traffic If you come to Vegas once a year for a convention, you will see a substantially different performance at "Penn & Teller." Despite this incentive, particularly with other magicians, shows here tend to freeze at a certain point and offer no reason to go again after having seen them once. That is never the case with "Penn & Teller."
So, why am I going on about "Penn & Teller" so much? I am doing a cover story on Teller for my job (at Las Vegas Weekly). Because Penn does all the talking on stage, I have long been curious about what Teller was like and how he saw the partnership. So, finally I began working on that story, and Tuesday night was the final night of reporting. I interviewed Penn about Teller, saw the show again and had a final interview with Teller.
But as much as I like "Penn & Teller," I was shocked at how packed the Rio turned out to be when I got there. The valet parking was full early on a Tuesday night? Well, I had stumbled on where the Nevada Democrats had chosen to gather to watch the election returns. My interview with Penn ended a couple of hours before the show, so I dropped by the Democratic gathering before the show.
The environment could not have been more different than backstage at the show.
One amazing thing I've learned about Penn & Teller in reporting this story is that in their closing-in on 35 years together, they have never canceled a performance. Penn, however, had an infected finger Tuesday night that required medical attention. So, earlier in the day, the doctor had numbed his finger. Of course, Penn needs to use his finger, a lot, for the show. The numbness was wearing off (he was excited about that), but there was a problem getting doctors to give Penn the best advice for doing the show. Probably because the doctors agreed with common sense, meaning that I was about to witness the first cancellation of a "Penn & Teller" show.
Of course, that did not happen. Penn even played an upright acoustic bass during part of the show. And no one watching the show would have known about Penn's finger problem. I could not imagine the pain he probably was feeling. But to the audience, he gave, if anything, an inspired show. Afterward I asked the jazz piano virtuoso, Mike Jones, who plays in the show, if he'd known about the finger. "I was there when they took the bandage off." He gave a grimace. The finger had been bandaged when I interviewed Penn. Anyway, if you want any sense of the dedication that it takes in putting on the best show in Vegas, this is a perfect example. The subject of the election was on no one's mind before the "Penn & Teller" show.
I made it to the Democratic rally as the numbers mounted up in their favor. The television at the center stage was on MSNBC, and I was reminded that when I covered the last debate with the Republicans at the Orleans, they were watching on Fox. Anyway, there was free food, but the drinks required money. By the time John McCain began conceding, the celebrating Vegas Democrats had filled the room so much that I withdrew to explore the rest of the casino with my remaining time. Even at the bars in the casino far from the official Democratic function, people were gathered at televisions, which were making a rare diversion from sports to be tuned to news, celebrating the Barack Obama victory. Vegas loves a winner, and I bet I would have found as many at the bar celebrating if McCain had won. Not that the feeling was universal. One person dragging a bag away yelled out to no one, "Yeah, socialism." But this was the first time in Vegas I had seen one of those cliched "buy everyone at this bar a drink" round moments.
As I headed back to go see the show, people all around were running past me to join the Democrats' celebration. Many appeared to be regular hotel guests. I ran into a couple of the publicists for Rio. They looked overwhelmed. One said the obvious: "There are way more people here than were invited."
At the "Penn & Teller" show, neither the election nor Penn's finger was mentioned. Instead, I saw yet another note-perfect version of what has been for some time the most creative, entertaining, intelligent and, in my opinion, best show in Vegas.
Photo credit: Sarah Gerke