3 insider itineraries on Maui

MAUI may be a tourist’s paradise, but it is also a great place to experience the unique culture of Hawaii. (No, we’re not talking about all those dueling luaus in Ka’anapali.) Had enough with the same-same? Here are three great itineraries that go beyond the usual.

1) UP AND DOWN

Where

Upcountry and the North Shore

What

The lion’s share of visitors prefer their sunshine to come with a guarantee, which means that there’s greater room for the rest of us on the more fertile side of the island.

Do

Start your day with a drive up Olinda Road, which runs up the side of the Haleakala volcano, through ranch country, past lines of fragrant eucalyptus trees and into some beautiful pine woods.

DAVID LANDSEL

The shave ice queens of Waiehu Beach Road, behind the counter at Tom's Mini Mart. The convenience store is a popular stop on Bonnie Friedman's Tour da Food, an insider look at Maui's local dining scene.

Photos: Maui for insiders

Near the end of the line you’ll find the trailhead for the Waihou Spring Trail; the moderate, mile-long hike through thick forest is popular with exercising locals, and far from the madding crowd.

If the surf’s up, you’ll want to head back down the hill to to the overlook at Hookipa Beach; there’s no place better in Maui to watch surf culture in action — it’s also one of the most beautiful oceanfront settings on this side of the island. The nearby town of Pa’ia is famous worldwide for its beach bum / hippie vibe; these days, it can be just as touristy as West Maui. You’ll find a more authentic scene just up the hill in the old ranch town of Makawao; check out the Viewpoints Gallery for a glimpse at the work of a couple dozen local artists, or stop in at the historic Komoda store for freshly-made malasadas, the Portuguese-style donuts that are a breakfast staple throughout Hawaii.

Get a sense of the way this side of the island works over at The Studio Maui, a performance / learning space in countercultural Haiku. Upcoming events include a workshop focusing on connecting with ancestral spirits — bring a sack lunch (calendar of upcoming events at thestudiomaui.com).

Eat

Some of the best produce in the state comes from Maui’s Upcountry; Market Fresh Bistro in Makawao is one of the best showcases for what’s good and local. Easily one of Maui’s most appealing restaurants right now, it’s a simple affair, helmed by Bronx native Justin Pardo and his stylish sister Olivia. The quality of everything — from freshly-caught mongchong to succulent local tomatoes — is truly memorable; come for breakfast or lunch every day.

Less frequent dinners are a work in progress, but are still very popular with the Upcountry set — make sure to reserve (3620 Baldwin Avenue; [808] 572-4877). Equally smart and friendly and tucked into a utilitarian strip mall back in the middle of nowhere, Colleen’s serves as the canteen for the off-the-beaten-path Haiku area; the tastes of the locals show in the regional/organic focus of the fun menu, which includes a spectacular bacon cheddar burger, using — but of course — grass-fed local beef from the fledgling Maui Cattle Company (810 Haiku Road; [808] 575-9211).