May We See the Wine List, Please?
Find out which restaurants in your city have the best wine lists
When the ambiance and the food are right, it is up to the wine list to make your evening perfect. Our writers share some of the country’s best, with an eye to how they support the style and menu of the restaurant.
How to order like a wine writer
By Steve Thurlow
Discerning diners often choose places to eat based on the chef and his or her ability to source the freshest ingredients and create a menu that distinguishes their establishment from others.
If food-first thinking shapes your restaurant selection and menu choices, you may be surprised to learn it usually has little influence on us wine writers. Rather than choose a meal and then a wine, we often look to the wine list first: choose our wines and then work out which dishes are likely to shine alongside the wine. The better the wine list, the greater the anticipation for the entire experience to come.
The next time you’re in a restaurant, experiment and choose the wine first. Take your time, ask questions and decide what you are really in the mood for, what really catches your eye, and choose a dish that matches with your pick. You won’t be disappointed.
Vancouver, British Columbia
Not a huge list, but boy, is it well thought out, with great variety. I love the huge selection of sherries and dessert wines, which, unlike most restaurants, is as diverse as the table wine section. A fun, but thoughtful mix of Old World and New World with almost everything — other than a few higher end wines — by the glass or 2-oz. taster. There should be a Salt in every city. (Gurvinder Bhatia)
45 Blood Alley, Vancouver, BC, 604-633-1912, salttastingroom.com
This brilliantly chosen, tiny list offers great value with fixed prices ($9 per glass and $36 per bottle). The selections fit the food like a glove and the unfussy extensive reserve list bursts with great rieslings, grüners and juicy reds of interest. (DJ Kearney)
1480 W. 11th Ave., Vancouver, BC, 604-736-6664, vijs.ca
This plentiful list can seem overwhelming, but it is hard to top in terms of depth and breadth for pairing with seafood in general and Pacific Northwest seafood in particular. All of the selections are served by the crack wine team. Sipping fizz at the Raw Bar is a pleasant pastime in this town. (DK)
1095 Hamilton St., Vancouver, BC, 604-688-8078, bluewatercafe.net
The captivating list, the food and the ambience are what UVA is all about. Order one of the many gems, like the Palmina Santa Ynez Nebbiolo, for a thrill. (DK)
900 Seymour St., Vancouver, BC, 604-632-9560, uvawinebar.ca
Maenam
The list features minimal markups on a concise, savvy list that uplifts the wonderful Royal Thai cuisine. The refreshing aromatic whites and featherweight reds are all served with knowledge and competence. (DK)
1938 W. 4th Ave., Vancouver, BC, 604-730-5579
White Rock, British Columbia
Rock solid cuisine, focusing on local, coastal and specialty charcuterie, is thoughtfully paired to a beautifully chosen wine list that will thrill the novice or collector wine lover, alike. Well worth the trip out of town. (DK)
14955 Marine Dr., White Rock, BC, 604-542-1064, pearlrestaurant.ca
Nelson, British Columbia
If you are driving to Calgary, Jasper or beyond, don’t miss the charming and comfy All Seasons Café in the cultured, if laid-back, town of Nelson for a great British Columbia wine selection, strong Pacific Northwest choices and interesting international picks. Markups are more than fair, and wine is served with care and no pretension whatsoever. (DK)
620 Herridge Ln., Nelson, BC, 250-352-0101, allseasonscafe.com
Calgary, Alberta
A contemporary, eclectic, postmodern list etched by sommelier/buyer Brad Royale. The list includes all the right classics alongside insider’s gems. Each style is served in its prescribed crystal stem with flair and poetry. It’s a place where if the sommelier says, “trust me,” you can. (John Szabo)
113 8th Ave. SW (Stephen Avenue Mall), Calgary, AB, 403-410-5555, crmr.com/divino
A classic, old school, 800-plus label list with both breadth and depth in a fine-dining atmosphere. Primarily focused on French and Italian wines, the wine list also features several high-end verticals and lots of older vintages. A great list of aged wine that is ready to drink, no matter your budget. (Tom Firth)
200 8th Ave. SE, Calgary, AB, 403-290-1012, teatro-rest.com
A large 500-plus international bottle list with a serious selection of Canadian wines. The combination of current and back vintages ensures finding a wine for a night out or special occasion is easy to do. The talented and knowledgeable wine staff is willing to lend a hand and help you find the perfect wine. (TF)
200 Barclay Parade SW, Calgary, AB, 403-261-7670, river-café.com
A great list that, despite its brevity, is packed with excellent wines. With a little bit of everything in terms of style, the list is dominated by international wines selling for less than $60 — perfect for an evening meal or a long lunch. (TF)
723 17th Ave. SW, Calgary, AB, 403-228-1854, bravabistro.com
The first thing you notice when you open this clean and concise list is the easy-to-understand way the variety of wines are arranged. Plenty of favourites from around the globe dot the list, along with a respectable selection of Canadian wines. Reasonable prices and a decent cross-section of by-the-glass options help make for a memorable night at the top of the Calgary Tower, for wine novices and more discerning palates alike. (TF)
101 – 9 Ave. SW, Calgary, AB, 403-532-7966, sky360.ca
Edmonton, Alberta
A really well-balanced list concentrating on quality, small producers, with an emphasis on Canadian and Californian wines. The list also features a nice selection of bubbles, interesting Aussies and cool picks from Bandol, Marche, Rias Baixas, Wachau, Sicily and Priorat. (GB)
10009 107th St. NW, Edmonton, AB, 780-990-1938, wildfloweredmonton.com
Bistecca Italian Steakhouse & Wine Bar
The wine list is Italian-focussed, with great, off-the-beaten-track choices. There is also a nice selection of Canadian and a smattering from the rest of the world. Any wine list with Capezzana Carmignano by the glass is a thumbs-up in my books. A bonus is the well-selected Manager’s Selections for less than $49. (GB)
2345 111th St. NW, Edmonton, AB, 780-439-7335, sorrentinos.com/bistecca.html
The Sabor Divino list is impressively large, with a proud showing of Portuguese wines along with popular regions, both New and Old World. The food is authentically European and well paired with the wine options. There is something here for all tastes and all budgets, including by-the-glass and small formats. (TF)
109 10220 103 St. NW, Edmonton, AB, 780-757-1114, sabordivino.ca
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
When your menu changes regularly/seasonally, your wine list needs to either change with it, or offer wines that are able to match diverse flavours. Calories does the latter, and features many exclusive wines — some sourced independently from out-of-province. If you enjoyed the wine with your meal, Calories can also sell you a bottle afterwards (and for less than wine list price). (BMS)
721 Broadway Ave., Saskatoon, SK, 306-665-7991, caloriesrestaurants.com
Regina, Saskatchewan
Located across Wascana Lake from the Saskatchewan Legislative building, The Willow on Wascana offers fine dining using locally sourced ingredients. The wine list is concise, offering brief-but-informative descriptions of each of the two dozen or so selections, many of which are available by the glass. The restaurant also offers a wine club membership run by its sommelier, David Burke. (BMS)
3000 Wascana Dr., Regina, SK, 306-585-3663, willowonwascana.ca
Winnipeg, Manitoba
South Osborne’s Bistro 7 1/4 is among the best of the area’s many cozy-yet-happening eateries. Its French-inspired cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients, works well with the concise, well-chosen and fun wine list. Any doubts about pairing wine and food can be handily put to rest by the knowledgeable staff. (BMS)
725 Osborne St., Winnipeg, MB, 204-777-2525, alexanderskitchen.com
Owner/sommelier Shawn Brandson has done a stellar job of compiling a wine list that matches the beauty of both Provence Bistro’s fare and the surrounding golf course. The food is distinctly French and the wine list favours France, Italy and Australia. It’s the city’s first restaurant to offer wine lockers to patrons. (BMS)
620 Niakawa Rd., Winnipeg, MB, 204-254-3500, provencebistro.com
Terrace Fifty-Five Food & Wine
While the wine list selections span the globe, there’s an emphasis on Canadian/Manitoba connections that runs through both the menu and the wine list. Those that aren’t directly “connected” have been chosen for the wineries’ commitments to sustainable practices. The food is upscale Canadian comfort food to be enjoyed in the heart of Assiniboine Park. (BMS)
55 Pavilion Cr., Winnipeg, MB, 204-938-7275
Toronto, Ontario
UNION has a short wine list, but there’s virtually nothing I wouldn’t want to drink on it, which is as rare as a four-leaf clover. Commanding the U-shaped bar, sommelier Christopher Sealy hand-picks every single wine for this hip downtown haunt based on exceptional price-to-pleasure ratio, and offers them up with a large dose of enthusiasm. (JS)
72 Ossington Ave., Toronto, ON, 416-850-0093, union72.ca
Via Allegro’s diverse and well-constructed wine list is almost too large — this lofty tome can be a bit overwhelming when you are unsure of what you want, so take advantage of the skilled staff. Via Allegro also has one of the best selections of scotch I’ve seen in a restaurant. (TF)
1750 The Queensway W., Toronto, ON, 416-622-6677, viaallegroristorante.com
This list features a good selection that is well-priced, with many hard-to-source wines from all over the world. Globe typically pours more than 20 wines by the glass, so it is a good place to go to experiment. The list is rich with Ontario selections and the team is very knowledgeable. It is neighbourhood casual, with the menu changing frequently to take advantage of seasonal ingredients. (Steve Thurlow)
124 Danforth Ave., Toronto, ON, 416-466-2000, globebistro.com
Featuring wine from all over Italy, with every selection well chosen for value and quality, this list is short on well-known labels — but you will rarely be disappointed. The food is well-priced and there is an amazing selection of pizzas, such that you will find yourself returning to try something different every time. You will never be disappointed since it’s all good, wholesome stuff that is well presented. It does get noisy and very busy, so best to go early and avoid at peak times. (STh)
720 Queen St. W., Toronto, ON, 416-504-0320, terroni.ca
Wine is the focus here, with many well-priced and innovative selections and a very talented wine team. Here they know which wine needs a carafe and it will be so served without the need to ask. The food is French-style bistro, but the atmosphere is more London, since it is housed in century-old building that is renovated in loft style. (STh)
455 King St. W., Toronto, ON, 416-977-1234, crushwinebar.com
Belleville, Ontario
A treasure trove of fascinating, bargain-priced, often-mature international wines
(including German riesling and Burgundy) first assembled by sommelier Andrew Laliberte and now maintained by California-trained Astrid Young, one of the best food pairing palates I’ve run across anywhere.
Local Prince Edward County wines are front and centre. (David Lawrason)
272 Front St., Belleville, ON, 613-968-7979, capers.ca
Kingston, Ontario
Chef Stev George’s third Kingston eatery is a light-hearted Italian trattoria/bistro. The wine list — virtually all under $50 except for a small reserve list — has a smattering of interesting regional Italians, Prince Edward County standards, alongside fun finds like a California malvasia. (DL)
39 Brock St., Kingston, ON, 613-547-5483, olivea.ca
Ottawa, Ontario
Chef/owner René Rodriguez has carved out a niche for Basque cuisine and tapas in the culinary embassy row called the Byward Market. Sommelier John Gross has assembled a well-priced list peppered with unsung Spanish regional wines that neatly provides international touchstones, as well. (DL)
93 Murray St., Ottawa, ON, 613-241-5500, navarrarestaurant.com
Sommelier Grayson McDiarmid has it covered: 30 wines by the glass representing the spectrum of styles, from Chablis to zinfandel. There are plenty of Canadian and international selections and enough oddities — like malvasia from Monterey and zibbibo from Pantelleria — to keep even jaded drinkers playing happily, and returning regularly. (JS)
1 York St., Ottawa, ON, 613-667-9207, playfood.ca
One doesn’t usually walk into a pub to drink wine, but it’s the thing to do at the Wellington. Publican Shane Waldron brings the concept to gastro level with an excellent, frequently changing menu, taps dedicated to microbrews and nearly 70 wines, including such cool picks as B.C. chenin blanc and Austrian blaufränkisch, served in appropriate stemware. (JS)
1325 Wellington St., Ottawa, ON, 613-729-1315, thewellingtongastropub.com
Ste-Marguerite-du-Lac-Masson, Quebec
Where am I going if I ever win the 6/49? This place. With more than 40 pages of Burgundy, including the biggest collection of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti I have ever seen dating back the 1980s, this 175-page wine list is a wine lover’s dream. (Bill Zacharkiw)
75 ch. Masson, Ste-Marguerite-Du-Lac-Masson, QC, 450-228-4988, bistroachamplain.com
Montreal, Quebec
L’Express
L’Express has been doing a fine job for 20 years or so and whether you are looking for a classic Bordeaux or a non-sulphite Beaujolais, this has been, and still is, the reference when it comes to affordable and interesting wine lists. (BZ)
3927 rue Saint-Denis, Montreal, QC, 514-845-5333
The list is a massive blackboard, filled with the hottest and most avant-garde wineries the world has to offer. Special attention is paid to Burgundy and the Loire. (BZ)
2491 Notre Dame W., Montreal, QC, 514-935-6504, joebeef.ca
Yes, it’s a sushi restaurant, and there are three pages of sake that are sourced from everywhere from Oregon to Japan. But, beyond that, the 15-page wine list is loaded with treasures. The accent is on Burgundy, with many of the regions newest star wine producers. Extra points for a lengthy list of Chablis. (BZ)
4075 Ste Catherine St. W., Montreal, QC, 514-932-5654, 70sushi.com
Petit Alep
Inexpensive, Middle Eastern-influenced cuisine and pages upon pages of well-priced and well-chosen wines from mostly European countries. (BZ)
191 Jean-Talon St. E., Montreal, QC, 514-270-9361
This restaurant is pure gluttony, both in terms of food and the wine list. The list, which features very reasonable markups and lots of variety, is not overly big. Rather than listing a large amount of producers, Pied de Cochon likes to showcase the depth of a single winery, so you will often find everything from the entry level wines all the way up to the high end. (BZ)
536 Ave. Duluth E., Montreal, QC, 514-281-1114, restaurantpieddecohon.ca
The wine list is Old World-dominant, but not old school, with some great selections outside the “traditional” wine regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany. The staff are great if you need a suggestion. (GB)
423 St. Claude, Montreal, QC, 514-861-1112, leclubchasseetpeche.com
Saint Brunswick, New Brunswick
happinez is a dark basement of a tiny, funky wine bar, owned by Peter Smit, a Dutchman who has lived in New Brunswick for decades. It is unique in the region in that happinez uses a Le Verre de Vin preservation system so it can offer 26 well-chosen, fairly priced ($6-$11) vinos by the glass, with little risk of oxidized wine. (CP)
42 Princess St., Saint John, NB, 503-634-7340, happinezwinebar.com
Wolfville, Nova Scotia
Besides featuring good local wine as house wines, sommelier Michael Laceby keeps a huge selection (40 pages worth) of wine at his family’s gorgeous old inn. He has more interesting, aged wines than any other restaurant in the region, including some Nova Scotia favourites (like the Jost 99 Mischurinetz) and classics, including Mosel rieslings from the 1970s and a 1970 Castillo Ygay from Marques de Marietta for $295. (CP)
195 Main St., Wolfville, NS, 902-542-2291, blomidon.ns.ca
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Don’t mistake this excellent restaurant for a tourist trap; cuisine is topnotch and sommelier Avery Gavel’s wine list is terrific, with a solid international selection, plus a decidedly local angle. This is the best Nova Scotia wine list in the country, with the province’s wines classified by sub-region. The list features 26 bottles in total, including 22 by-the-glass offerings at reasonable prices. (CP)
1740 Argyle St., Halifax, NS, 902-422-4421, fivefishermen.com
Portugal Cove, Newfoundland and Labrador
Atlantica’s wine list has a large selection of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Italian, and a small, but interesting, by-the-glass selection (good white Burgundy for $9, Cahors for $9). With options including some very interesting half bottles of red Burgundy, Atlantica definitely has the wine to match their deservedly highly-touted cuisine. (CP)
38 Beachy Cove Rd., Portugal Cove-St. Philips, NL, 709-895-1251, atthebeachhouse.ca/atlantica
Upcoming Events
- Characters of the Okanagan Wine Tasting Experience
September 30th- October 1st, 2011
- Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival Calgary
October 14th & 15th, 2011
- Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival Edmonton
October 21st & 22nd, 2011
- Cornucopia Whistler's Celebration of Wine and Food
November 10th-13th, 2011
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