A worker organizes clothing at an American Apparel retail store in New York. Photographer: Keith Bedford/Bloomberg
American Apparel Inc. (APP), the Los
Angeles clothier once heralded as a U.S. manufacturing success
story, said it may seek bankruptcy protection after slumping
sales and productivity ate into its cash.
“We are currently experiencing significant liquidity
constraints,” the company said yesterday. Chairman and Chief
Executive Officer Dov Charney had almost doubled sales in the
three years through 2009 before immigration-related staff
firings, coupled with store overexpansion, sapped revenue.
Charney, 42, founded the retailer in college, building a
U.S. empire known for colorful t-shirts and ads featuring
scantily clad women. The chain, which has lost money for four
straight quarters, has amended its loan agreements at least five
times to avoid breaching debt covenants.
“There was a lot of glimmer and glamour associated with
them,” said Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth
Partners in New Canaan, Connecticut. “It was a story built on
image and now the more sunlight that gets shed on it, the
sorrier the image has become.”
American Apparel declined 6 cents, or 6.6 percent, to 90
cents at 4:01 p.m. New York time in NYSE Amex trading. The
shares have dropped 46 percent this year. The stock traded at an
all-time high of $15.80 in December 2007.
Return to Profitability
The company doesn’t need more capital and doesn’t expect a
bankruptcy, Charney said in a telephone interview. The chain is
primed to become profitable again now that it’s hired and
trained workers to replace those fired, and to return within two
years to its 2007-2009 levels of earnings before interest,
taxes, depreciation and amortization of about $50 million, he
said.
The new staff, coupled with selling brand clothes at other
retailers and opening as many as 70 stores, may help the company
reach his goal of $1 billion in annual sales, Charney said.
Revenue fell 4.6 percent to $533 million last year, according to
a regulatory filing yesterday.
American Apparel was legally required to refer to possible
bankruptcy in its disclosures, Charney said. “They disclose
risk, but at the same time I believe in this opportunity, and
I’m getting ready to have a great season,” he said.
The company also said yesterday that two of its board
members, Lyndon Lea and Neil Richardson, both from lender Lion
Capital LLP, resigned to evaluate the private-equity firm’s
investment. Lion, based in London, lent the chain $80 million in
March 2009 to pay off a credit facility. Lion also has 16.8
million warrants of American Apparel stock.
American Apparel said last year that it may not have enough
money to keep operations going, creating “substantial doubt”
about its future.
U.S. Manufacturing
American Apparel gained attention for manufacturing its
clothes in Los Angeles, instead of cheaper labor markets, and
for offering workers pay above the minimum wage. That prompted
headlines such as “American Apparel: A Made-In-U.S.A. Success”
from CBS News in 2006.
The chain almost doubled in size to more than 280 stores
from 2007 through 2009. That growth may have been part of its
decline as Charney, the retailer’s majority shareholder, said
last year that expansion led to sales cannibalization in some
markets. Productivity also slumped in 2009 after the chain fired
1,500 workers for immigration violations.
The company has closed 13 underperforming stores this year,
according to a statement today.
Sales at stores open more than a year, a key metric of a
retailer’s health, may decline in the high-single-digit
percentages in the first quarter, a ninth-straight drop. For
this year, American Apparel expects so-called same-store sales
to increase.
2011 Goals
“Our principal goal in 2011 is to stabilize the business
and create a platform for renewed growth and increasing sales,”
Thomas Casey, American Apparel’s acting president, said in the
statement. “2010 was an extremely challenging but productive
year.”
The company has identified “material weaknesses” in
control of its financial reporting as of Dec. 31, 2010,
according to yesterday’s filing. Former auditor Deloitte &
Touche LLP resigned last year, after telling the company it
couldn’t determine whether its financial statements were
reliable.
Charney has used his own money to boost the balance sheet.
He purchased 1.8 million shares for $2 million in a private
sale, according to a public filing March 24. The company needed
money help pay for the cost of rising yarn prices, Charney said
today. American Apparel had $138.4 million in outstanding debt
and cash of $7.7 million as of Dec. 31.
Sexual Lawsuits
American Apparel and Charney are also facing two sexual
harassment lawsuits filed by former female employees in March.
Charney declined to comment on the litigation. Peter Schey, a
lawyer for American Apparel, said the claims aren’t true, in a
telephone interview on March 29.
“With all these ethical and legal issues, it’s too much of
a distraction,” Johnson said. “Even if he had zero problems,
there’s a huge problem to fix in the business. When you have
that and all these other problems, it makes it more difficult.”
American Apparel has shaken up management to improve
results. Casey, former chief financial officer at Blockbuster
Inc. (BLOAQ), joined in October, tasked with devising a turnaround plan.
John Luttrell, former CFO at Gap Inc. (GPS)’s Old Navy, came on as CFO
in February. Martin Staff became chief of business development
in March after stints at Hugo Boss and Calvin Klein.
To contact the reporter on this story:
Matthew Townsend in New York at
mtownsend9@bloomberg.net.
To contact the editor responsible for this story:
Robin Ajello at
rajello@bloomberg.net