Shark watching is the perfect thing for adrenalin junkies

 

Suddenly I was eyeballing one mean, toothy shark grin

 
 
 
 
A female great white  hark attracted by the bait of the diving boat, but the crew is not allowed to let the shark eat the bait.
 

A female great white hark attracted by the bait of the diving boat, but the crew is not allowed to let the shark eat the bait.

Photograph by: Elaine Yong, for Postmedia News

"Down, down, down! To the left!" yells out the crew of our boat, Shark Fever. So with a deep gasp of air, I sink below the surface of the chilly Atlantic Ocean, just in time to stare into the sinister eye of a great white shark as she glides right past me. Her toothy grin is less than half a metre away. It could be an absolutely terrifying moment, but I have no fear. I am safely ensconced behind the galvanized steel bars of a specially-made shark-diving cage. Though admittedly, it's difficult to keep the theme music to Jaws from popping into my head.

Great white sharks are often thought of as the meanest, nastiest predators on earth, striking fear into the hearts of the bravest surfers and swimmers. I obviously don't buy into the negative image because I have travelled to one of the world's hot spots for great whites, specifically in the hopes of a face-to-face rendezvous.

Picturesque Gaansbai is just a two-hour drive from Cape Town, along a stunning oceanside route. Though fishing is still the lifeblood of the local economy, tourism is bringing in plenty of fresh bait, as visitors from around the world flock to the so-called "Great White Shark Capital of the World." You can believe the hype. With a 90-per-cent-plus chance of a sighting during peak viewing season (April-December), you'd have to be very unlucky not to see one of these magnificent carnivores in the flesh.

Though you actually get the best photo ops right from the boat, the truly adventurous won't hesitate to don a wetsuit and dive right in. Marine Dynamics is one of at least five shark-diving operations in this town of 20,000. All are regulated by the government and follow strict safety guidelines.

The most dangerous part of the trip could very well be seasickness from rough ocean conditions. My 66-year old father has no fear during his close encounter with the great whites. In fact, he jumped at the chance to be first in the cage. However, after about 15 minutes back in the boat, my poor dad is green in the gills, retching over the gunwales. On the positive side, it makes good chum for sharks.

Though the big adventure for most visitors to this part of the world starts and ends on safari, you don't have to be content to be an observer. Southern Africa is the perfect destination for adrenalin junkies, young and old. From the heights of a bungee jump, to the underwater depths of shark diving, you could spend your entire vacation in a permanent endorphin high.

Swakopmund, a lovely coastal town in Namibia, has grown into an African adventure hot spot. With the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean on one side, the country's premier beach resort is hemmed in by giant towering sand dunes, some of the largest in the world. The Namib Desert may be a harsh and unforgiving moonscape, but it is also the ideal playground for a myriad of action-packed tours. Skydiving, quad biking and dune buggies are all available here, but the most popular is sandboarding. Think of it like snowboarding, except you are carving turns on sheer slip faces of sand, and no heavy winter gear needed. Learning doesn't hurt as much either, because crash on sand is akin to plowing into very soft powder, so bruised bums and hands are virtually non-existent here.

If you really feel the need for speed, opt for the "lie-down" method. Head first on a specially polished board, this is best compared to skeleton, and can achieve similar neck-breaking speeds of 80km/h. A warning though -- there is no chair lift in the Namib desert, so prepare for a hot and sweaty walk up those towering dunes to earn each ride.

Bordering Zambia and Zimbabwe, spectacular Victoria Falls has become famous for much more than "the smoke that thunders", as local natives refer to the largest curtain of water in the world. It is now widely known as a must-visit destination for thrill-seekers. Many tourists may think the most hair-raising experience you can sign up for is the 111-metre bungee jump off the Victoria Falls Bridge, but I would argue the top of that list should be reserved for an adventure I recommended strictly for the risk-taker willing to endure a few bumps and bruises - rafting down the Zambezi River.

Known widely as one of the world's wildest white water experiences, the Zambezi is classified as Grade 5. According to the British Canoe Union, that means "extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas".

It takes a full day to run the 18 rapids, which start at the base of the Victoria Falls, and end 24 km later. With names like "Gnashing Jaws of Death", "Washing Machine" and "Terminator", I probably should have paid more attention before signing the indemnity waiver.

Within ten minutes in the gorge, I knew this day would be nothing like my little baby whitewater experience on the Green River in Whistler. At "Morning Glory", our first Class IV rapid, the raft plummets into a big hole at the bottom of a standing wave. I bounce into the air and get unceremoniously dumped into a boiling whirlpool, but manage to hang on with dear life to the safety ropes on the side. I nearly lose my bikini bottom in the Zambezi while getting hauled back into the raft, but that's another story.

Then there is the "Muncher", less than half an hour later. I don't really remember much except a wave of water slamming into the boat, and then a feeling of weightlessness as the entire raft flips over. At least I'm not alone in the Zambezi this time. At the fourteenth rapid, just a wee Class III, I slip and slide right out ... again.

Then near the end of this rock and roll ride, the mother of them all, the infamous eighteenth rapid "Oblivion". Our guide Sean, who clearly has a death wish, grins and shouts, "She's kicking!" as we make our approach. Only one in four attempts succeed, so do the math -the odds of flipping are virtually guaranteed.

We are not an exception to the rule. We bronco ride through the first two punishing waves, only to get pummelled by the final crest of water. I think our boat actually gets airborne for just a moment before crashing down, trapping me underneath. I spend a few terrifying moments in the pitch black, getting swept down the river at a wicked speed, before pulling myself out.

Thankfully, my sore back, bruises and rope burns only last a few days with no permanent side effects, except the determination to never raft the Zambezi again -- once is definitely enough in this case.

If a slower pace of travel is more your preference, Botswana is the ultimate destination for more passive adventure, perfectly suited for the entire family. But there will still be plenty of opportunities to get your heart racing. North of South Africa, landlocked between Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia, there are vast tracts of untouched wilderness waiting to be explored. With a low-volume, high-cost tourism philosophy, you are virtually guaranteed dozens of one-on-one encounters with wildlife while on safari.

Mobile camping is the only way to really experience Botswana. With Letaka Safaris, camping includes hot bucket showers, 3 course gourmet meals and ensuite loos attached to our tents. As Brent Reed, our guide and one of the company's owners explains, "A mobile safari gives you a real flavour of the land. You get to move from one area to another by vehicle and experience the subtle changes in scenery."

On our first night sleeping under canvas in Chobe National Park, I hear rustling footsteps outside. I quickly jump out of bed and look outside the tent flap, just in time to see a visiting honey badger scurrying away from our campsite.

It takes a couple of days to settle into the safari routine, which consists of early mornings and early bedtimes, with lots of game viewing, eating, and relaxing in between. Most of our days are spent in the safari vehicle, going where the animal tracks lead us. But on Day 6, when we leave the national parks and get to Khwai, a community-run private reserve, it's time to stretch our legs. Brent pulls out his rifle, loaded with the biggest bullets I have ever seen, and proceeds to give us a safety talk, which sounds more like a rundown of all the potential dangers of game walks. "You must always stay behind me, walk in single file, only speak in whispers, and follow my directions implicitly, " he states emphatically.

Every sense is on high-alert as I follow Brent through the bush. Unlike a game drive, on a walk, you don't actually want to get too close to some of the large animals, especially elephants. Instead, the emphasis is on seeing, smelling and touching some of the smaller flora and fauna we have been speeding past.

It's the same idea when floating in a mokoro down a channel on the Okavango Delta. We spend several minutes admiring tiny reed frogs no bigger than a thumbnail, before gazing down into the crystal-clear shallow water to find hippo tracks worn through the thick layer of reeds. The traditional dug-out canoe is still used by locals as a means of transportation through the meandering backwaters and floodplains of the delta. But it is also the perfect way to immerse yourself in this stunning piece of paradise. A poler stands on the back of the mokoro and silently propels you over the water. Though this aquatic adventure isn't without its risks. Brent mockingly refers to mokoros as "hippo lures", and an encounter with the most dangerous animal in Africa is something you want to strenuously avoid.

On our final night under canvas, another heart-pounding moment. Two lions keep us awake all night with their throaty roars, and they seem to be moving closer. By the time the sun peaks over the horizon, it sounds like these top predators are right behind the campsite.

The whereabouts of these cats is the main topic of conversation as we excitedly discuss over our final bush breakfast of camp bread, bacon and eggs. Brent pauses mid-sentence, points just beyond our dining tent, and almost casually says, "Oh look, there is one of the lions right there."

You don't have to look very far to find adventure in Africa. Sometimes it comes to you.

If you go (Prices in CDN $ unless stated)

Getting there: Johannesburg is the gateway city for all destinations in southern Africa.

Shark Diving (near Cape Town): We booked with Marine Dynamics (www.sharkwatchsouthafrica.com). The half-day excursion costs about $200 and includes all equipment, breakfast and snacks. Best time to see great whites is from January to September.

Sandboarding (Swakopmund, Namibia): Alter Action (www.alter-action.info) is the original sandboarding company in Swakopmund. A day trip to the dunes is $20-30US. Rafting the Zambezi (Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe or Livingstone, Zambia): A full-day rafting trip down the Zambezi is $110US. It includes transport from hotels, equipment and lunch. Shearwater Adventures (www.shearwateradventures.com) also offers bungee jumps off the Victoria Falls Bridge for $105US. Botswana Mobile Camping Safari: Expect to pay about $400US per person per night on a mobile safari with Letaka Safaris (www.letakasafaris.com). Rates include all meals, drinks, activities and accommodation. You can also book through Vancouver-based adventure travel agent Mona Hubinette (www.personaltravel.ca), the exclusive Canadian agent for Letaka.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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A female great white  hark attracted by the bait of the diving boat, but the crew is not allowed to let the shark eat the bait.
 

A female great white hark attracted by the bait of the diving boat, but the crew is not allowed to let the shark eat the bait.

Photograph by: Elaine Yong, for Postmedia News

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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