Day-trippin' on the edge of an epic continent

 

 
 
 
 
A tourist hikes the Light House Keepers Trail at Cape Point, South Africa, the southwestern tip of the Afican continent.
 

A tourist hikes the Light House Keepers Trail at Cape Point, South Africa, the southwestern tip of the Afican continent.

Photograph by: Chris Reynolds, McClatchy-Tribune News Service

When South Africans say it's not the end of the world, they really mean it - that is, when it comes to the mustdo sojourn along the Cape Peninsula. The stunning finale of the dramatic Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope makes for a bucket-list worthy pilgrimage, where many have ventured to stand on some of the highest coastal cliffs on the planet for the bragging rights of claiming they've seen the end of the world. Technically, the true most southernmost point of Africa is about a couple of hundred kilometres away, but why quibble; there's a good reason why you'll want to make this the scenic day trip of a lifetime.

Departing from Cape Town in a rental car or guided tour is hasslefree and allows for customized stops, as there's much to take in. Heading south along the coast will eventually leave the city behind and approach the likes of the tony Camps Bay, engulfed by the 12 Apostles mountains and the hippest beachfront on the Atlantic Seaboard. The rolling stretch between Camps Bay and Hout Bay have beckoned the Beckhams, Madonna and Elton John, to name a few international celebrities that have villas here.

The seaside drive continues to the bustling fishing harbour known as Mariner's Wharf. African artisans selling their wares, calamari platters and a sprawling beach will command your attention on the ground, but a gaze up to the towering mountain cradling Hout Bay will reveal the quirky and haunting replica of a 12th-century Schloss Lichtenstein castle, erected by Cape Town businessman Reynier Fritz in the 80's.

Driving gloves may be appropriate for the next leg of the trek; the spectacular Chapman's Peak drive is Africa's Amalfi coast, high above the Atlantic atop perilous craggy cliffs offering epic views at every bend. The dramatic and imposing jaw-dropathon that's the muse of many high-octane, award-winning auto commercials makes it one of the most dramatic routes in the world.

Eventually you'll ease into Noordhoek, a village-like valley where black eagles soar over organic farms, wine estates, quaint B&Bs; and horsefriendly Noordhoek Beach. A short distance away is the naval training base Simon's Town and opportunities for boutique shopping, Southern Right whale and Great White shark excursions and historical tours. Be sure to pay your respects to Just Nuisance, an affectionate monument to an extraspecial Great Dane who looks out to the soldiers he once served during World War ll. The only dog ever to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy, Just Nuisance was a free-spirited, train-hopping loyal companion whose stories still charm the town.

Not to be missed is a stop into Boulders, the colony of the equally amiable African penguins formerly known as Jackasses, due to their donkey-like whinnies. Not always as friendly however, are the Chacma baboons that will mark your passage into the territory of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Armed with stellar senses of smell, these formidable goons will stalk you should you have even a stitch of sustenance: keep bags food-free and vehicle windows closed. Don't let them distract you, though, from the remaining animal kingdom at play amongst the king protea and sugarbush fields. If you're lucky, eland, bontebok and zebras will pave the way to climactic ends when you reach the tip of the continent's shores.

Take the Flying Dutchman funicular up Cape Point over the rugged sandstone to find yourself overlooking the highest coastal cliffs in the world. Somewhere, in the distance past the eyes' capacity for infinity, the icy Atlantic mingles with the warmer waters of the Indian Ocean. A meandering ascent up the steps leading to the old lighthouse delivers on the piece de la resistance of earthly wonders that feel ironically other-worldly. Steeped in history, the foreboding swells thrash violently with stories of ghost ships and centuries gone by, such as the 1911 Portuguese liner Lusitania that suffered its wreckage at the hands of the Cape's waters.

A final descending hike through wildflower-dotted fynbos to the Cape of Good Hope will render you eyelevel to the crashing euphoria that surrounds Africa's extreme south. Clamouring to take it all in, there's the fear it's just too big for the small corners of your mind that will crave to remember this moment; it's not the end of the world. But it might as well be.

IF YOU GO

Flights - Direct from London, Washington DC or JFK New York on South African Airways www.flysaa.com

Tours - Roots Africa Tours www.rootsafrica.co.za

Currency - Rand

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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A tourist hikes the Light House Keepers Trail at Cape Point, South Africa, the southwestern tip of the Afican continent.
 

A tourist hikes the Light House Keepers Trail at Cape Point, South Africa, the southwestern tip of the Afican continent.

Photograph by: Chris Reynolds, McClatchy-Tribune News Service

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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