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Wear `fabric of dreams' this season
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Dazzle this Diwali, draped in the `fabric of dreams'- Brocade. ARCHANA NANDAL traces the tradition of this royal textile, which is in vogue this season.
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IF THERE is one textile, which defines this fall season's "that one magical fashion moment", it is Brocade. From the lanes of Benares to the Parisian Boduoir, from the robes of regality to the nautch girls ghaghra, from theatrical costume to the Indian bride's trousseau, from "Devdas" to "Lord of the Rings", and from Raghuvendra Rathore to Valentino, this sumptuously divine fabric, has been there and done that.
It appears then that the fash-pack has pulled it out of antiquity and placed it right there, in the middle of the fashion map this season. A textile that weaves history in its warp and weft is now looking none other than the completely contemporary.
Brocade or "Kinkhwab", literally meaning "fabric of dreams", really is the stuff that dreams are made of. The name itself conjures up a sense of pure luxury, which, in ornamentation, matches only the splendor of jewelry. So what is Brocade really? A textile woven, almost prayer like, by the nimble fingers of the `naqsshband kaarigar', the master craftsman living in the crowded and mystical lanes of Benares, gets it's opulence from gilded strands which are floated with pure silk threads to create a lush surface, textured with motifs that romanticise flora and fauna. The gold strand itself is pure gold melted and pulled out of successive minute holes, each one smaller than the last, until it has been stretched to the desired thinness. On the loom, this extra weft of gold thread is run across the warp with the motifs picked up in silk threads in jewel like colours worked in the manner of "minakaari" in jewelry. The names that the craftsmen give to the designs are a reflection of the romanticism with which they work over these weavings fit perhaps for the royal court - chandtara (the moon and the stars), dhoopchaon (light and shadow), morgalaa (the peacock's slender neck), bulbul chasm (the nightingale eyes) - are but a few. Sometimes silver is also used, where the background is in silver and the motifs are worked in gold and silk. This is lovingly called ganga jamuna , ganga for gold and jamuna for silver.
The brocading tradition was one essentially brought to India by the Moghuls in the 15th century. The Emperors were connoisseurs of good living and great patrons of art who brought to their courts outstanding artists and commissioned great works. It was in this milieu, that the weaving tradition flourished and the opulent textiles were used not only to cover all surfaces at the royal courts but even for the apparel of the servants who carried the fans and for the trappings of elephants in spectacular royal processions.
Getting back from history, if there ever was a good time to don the royal mantle, it is here and it is now. Emperor or not, it's time to get new clothes.
And the most covetable ones are those in Brocade. So, hit the dowry chest and take out the wedding benarasi sari, or the ornamented kinkhwab blouse that mother lovingly gave little knowing that it would one day get the designer's nod.
And if they have acquired the patina of age and use, still better! It's time for luxury, friends, and brocades have done a wistful time travel only to knock at your door once again. So, go on a guiltless gilt trip! Start today!!
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