Is it possible to get an extra deal on something that is already free? Apparently, yes, as the list of the four wines offered for sampling at August Briggs Winery teases at the end: "If you're good, there might be something else to taste. Just ask nicely."

It's a bonus on top of a bonus since the winery, sitting on the north end of the Silverado Trail next door to Solage Calistoga Resort, is one of the few in Napa Valley to offer complimentary tastings. The generosity is a welcome throwback to the area's earlier times, before what now amounts to cover charges at most other wineries.

While Briggs' whitewashed redwood walls and corrugated steel roof give it old-school charm, the barn-style facility actually opened in 2004. The newness is apparent as soon as you step inside the efficiently designed tasting room.

The vibe: It gets cozy quick at the green marble-topped bar that fits perhaps eight bodies. But our host was adept at squeezing a full crowd in and maintaining the friendly, laid-back mood. "Belly up to the bar and get some wing room," he told a couple hovering shyly near the front door, then suggesting to another pair that they wander with their glasses and enjoy the view of the barrel room just steps away.

Checking out the barrels is a good idea, since there isn't much else to look at in this compact building set on just 2 acres of land, including 1.5 acres of Petite Sirah. Green and white paint frames a wooden cubby wall of wine bottles, there's a hutch with a few gifts like wine candles and wine dog books, and that's about it in this pleasant, but generic, space.

The team: August "Joe" Briggs is the owner and winemaker, following his lengthy career with outfits like Alpine Vineyards in Oregon and La Crema in Sonoma County. He introduced his own label in 1995, and continues as consulting winemaker for Pinot giant Castle Rock, plus makes wines for NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon. His wife, Sally, heads up sales.

The wines: The winery may be small, but its ambition is large. With 16 single-vineyard and appellation-designated wines from properties across Napa, Sonoma and Lake counties, a single varietal may show up from several regions. Briggs' 2007 Pinot Noir, for example, comes from Carneros in one bottling, Sonoma Coast in another, Russian River Valley in another and Napa Valley in yet another. Other varietals include Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Charbono, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.

The experience: Don't expect frills beyond a dish of pretzels, but the host did his best to offer individual attention to each taster through a standing-room-only afternoon, and ours was particularly helpful in offering food-pairing suggestions to complement Briggs' signature style of powerful fruit. On the down side, guests hoping to try out more obscure varietals like Briggs' 2007 Napa Valley Frediani Vineyard Charbono ($38) or Pinot Meunier (sold out) received an apology that supplies were limited to wine-club members. Six wines for sale, too, are for club members, so it wasn't surprising - if disappointing - that my host encouraged me to join in order to get a full tasting-room experience.

It's worthwhile to call ahead and see what's being offered, however, since sampling selections change frequently, and depending on each year's grape supply, Briggs accents its lineup with some extra small-production specialties. We did ask nicely, by the way, and were rewarded with a bonus taste of 2007 Napa Valley Petite Sirah ($38).

The extras: Time and staff permitting, there are complimentary barrel room tours and barrel samplings.

Nearby: Lava Vine Winery, 965 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, (707) 942-9500, lavavine.com; Clos Pegase Winery, 1060 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, (707) 942-4981, clospegase.com; Sterling Vineyards, 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, (707) 942-3344, sterlingvineyards.com.

If you go: August Briggs Winery, 333 Silverado Trail (near Lake County Hwy.), Calistoga, (707) 942-4912, augustbriggswines.com. Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Groups of five or more require an appointment.

Rating: Rating: TWO STARS

This article appeared on page N - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle