4288 24th St. (at Douglass)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 821-7652
Few restaurants have such a tight-knit neighborhood vibe as Brad Levy's 17-year-old Firefly. The two adjoining dining rooms are cozy, with fabric covering the ceiling and helping to baffle the sound. The menu channels China for scallop and shrimp potstickers, heads South for fried chicken with buttermilk biscuits, and travels to Germany for braised venison shoulder with pan-fried spaetzle and red cabbage. There are always at least two well-executed vegetarian main courses, such as chard- and mushroom-stuffed phyllo with cauliflower puree or manicotti with chanterelles and broccoli rabe.
Specialties: Goat cheese souffle; fried chicken; vegetarian entrees; warm chocolate and butterscotch tart; three-course menu for $35 Sunday-Thursday.
Dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Wed., until 10 p.m. Thurs.-Sat., and until 9 p.m. Sun.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.