Dining Out: Stick with pub fare at Monk's Kettle

Driving through the heart of the Mission District, it's hard to tell the new neighbors from the old. A weathered funkiness pervades the crowded restaurants and bars that make up the long stretch of 16th Street.

So it's no surprise that the Monk's Kettle, a gastropub nestled into a tiny corner spot on an alley, looks as though it's been there for years.

At 6:30 on a Wednesday night, you'd be lucky to nab one of the bar stools or tables that fill the tight 42-seat spot, especially if there are more than two in your party. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, and by mid-evening there can be a significant wait.

Patrons sit shoulder to shoulder at an L-shaped bar that runs the length of the room, tossing back beers from the extensive and well-conceived list. With 24 on tap and more than 120 bottles from which to choose, many people come primarily for the brews. Created by co-owner Christian Albertson, the list changes often and covers the globe, with the largest portion belonging to Belgian and Trappist beers (a designation allowed to just seven Trappist monasteries - hence the restaurant's name).

Showcase for beer

The gastropub was the brainchild of Albertson and Nat Cutler, two friends with very different backgrounds and the same idea. They wanted a place that would showcase a wide selection of beer and wine to match upscale pub fare, and they've utilized every square inch of the place to do so.

Small tables run parallel to the bar and are separated by etched marble slabs. It creates a rustic, European atmosphere that's casual but slightly cramped. Fitting several plates on a table is quite difficult - this is not necessarily a place for groups.

Still, patrons don't seem to mind the close quarters; nor do the servers. All are quick to recommend beers, and most are chummy and joke easily with customers. On busy nights, however, they can be absentminded and overwhelmed. On one visit, it seemed about halfway through the meal that our server had forgotten us, and we had to flag her down simply to refill water and remove plates.

And busing dishes is essential, as it's easy to over-order from chef Kevin Kroger's lengthy American menu, with enticing options including a tender, saucy pulled-pork sandwich ($11.75) with crunchy jicama slaw or a daily changing pot pie (price varies). A blanket of golden puff-pastry dough tops the creamy filling - on one visit, it was shrimp; charred scallops starred on another night.

While everything sounds tempting, some dishes don't turn out as well.

The giant soft pretzel ($8) with cheddar ale sauce, for example, was so greasy that our napkins were see-through by the time we were done. And the vegan chili ($8.50), in theory a lovely fall dish redolent of cinnamon with black beans, tasted overcooked and mushy. We saw a few mushrooms, but otherwise it was hard to tell what was what.

Surplus of fries

We did love the overflowing appetizer bowl of shoestring fries ($5), served with chipotle ketchup and herb aioli for dipping. Salty and crisp, they'd be a perfect late-night snack to share over a round of beers. But in the same meal, we had ordered two sandwiches that also came with a lofty pile of the identical fries. Had our server let us know, we would have chosen a different starter.

The macaroni and cheese ($12), for example. Served in a shallow cast-iron skillet, the creamy pasta is laced with chunks of bacon (optional) and topped with crispy breadcrumbs. It's comfort food that goes beautifully with much of the beer list. In fact, pairings are listed with each dish on the menu. We skeptically chose Grandpa's Suds (a can of Pabst, $2), recommended with the mac and cheese, and it was, surprisingly, a home run.

Those opting for something lighter can order one of four salads, like an early fall blend of pears, goat cheese and slivered almonds with sweet maple vinaigrette ($9). It's better than the spinach with manchego cheese, pumpkin seeds and dried cranberries ($9.25). The elements pair nicely, but the bland tahini dressing was too thick and did nothing to elevate the dish.

For sandwiches, the burger ($11) is juicy, well seasoned and sits on soft sesame brioche, with a choice of toppings. The Loch Duart salmon sandwich ($14) is another fine option, the fillet covered by a swath of olive tapenade aioli and crispy shallots.

Fancy dishes suffer

The fancier Kroger gets, the more the dishes tend to suffer. The skirt steak ($19.50) was flabby, difficult to cut, and not cooked to the requested medium, and the pork chop ($20) came out dry, although it was partly saved by the accompanying white cheddar scallion potato cake.

Desserts ($7.50) change daily, but there's usually a seasonal fruit cobbler - on one visit it was warm apple, scented with cinnamon - plus a bread pudding. We sampled the gooey chocolate peanut butter version, which is dense and rich with a ribbon of salty peanut butter.

Or, of course, you could forgo dessert entirely and just gulp down an organic chocolate stout. After all, you can't go wrong with a good beer - it's what the Monk's Kettle does best. With the winning list and a little more focus in the kitchen, the gastropub should have a permanent home in the neighborhood.

Amanda Gold is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at agold@sfchronicle.com, and visit sfgate.com/food for comprehensive restaurant reviews and listings.

This article appeared on page F - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle