Melissa Perello, who was a Chronicle Rising star in 2002 when she was just 25, and was used to cooking at high-end places such as the Fifth Floor, has opened a cozy neighborhood spot in the Castro where she can cook whatever she likes. And everyone seems to like -- make that love -- what she creates. She's amassed an experienced staff, including Paul Einbund, known for his creative wine matches at Coi. The list here is more compact and includes a house wine he's blended himself that sells for a very friendly $1 an ounce. You drink what you want and are charged accordingly.

 
Specialties: Menu changes nightly, but hope for chicken liver mousse; bacon beignets; crispy chickpea fritters; crab salad; chicken with savory bread pudding; lumberjack cake.

Hours

Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.

Cuisines

• American
• California

Features

• Beer and wine
• Corkage ($15; waived if one bottle is purchased from the list.)
• Credit Cards: Accepted
• Disabled Access
• Parking: Street (Difficult)
• Reservations: Accepted
• Seating (37 (plus 10 at the bar))