2401 Harrison St. (at 20th Street)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 826-7000
No other moderately priced Italian restaurant has generated such enthusiastic buzz since Delfina and A16 opened several years ago. And with good reason: While the food is similar to what you'll find at dozens of other places, but Thomas McNaughton makes most other places look like cheap imitations. He's a master at pasta and wood-fired pizza, and the desserts are just as good. The cramped interior seems modest, but it's filled with interesting details: newly constructed ceiling beams that feel a century old; sanded walnut tables; and stained glass from the dearly departed Myth. Once you get in -- which can be a challenge -- the staff treats everyone like family.
Specialties: Any pasta on the daily changing menu; pizza; warm lamb's tongue salad with poached egg; main courses such as seared pheasant with pumpkin puree; any dessert.
Dinner 5:30 p.m.-midnight nightly.
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