1001 Westside Road (at West Dry Creek)
Healdsburg
Tel. (707) 433-4231
The setting looks like something out of "Gone With the Wind," but Jesse Mallgren's food is rooted in the 21st century. He cooks lobster sous vide, pairing it with fennel, blood orange and an uni sauce. He makes powders from olive oil and soy sauce to sprinkle on meats and vegetables, and churns ice cream tableside using liquid nitrogen. Each of the five dining rooms of the inn, owned by Bill and Trudi Konrad, is filled with crystal chandeliers, ornate wallpaper, Victorian accessories and warming fireplaces. Much of what Mallgren cooks comes from the grounds of the 8-acre estate, which includes 22 guest rooms.
Specialties: Menu changes nightly, but look for the slow-cooked eggs atop an onion veloute with Banyuls vinegar; ice cream churned tableside; cheese cart.
Dinner 6-9 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.