7871 River Rd.
Forestville
Tel. (707) 887-3300
This yellow Victorian near Forestville is Sonoma County's answer to the Michelin-starred French country restaurant. It has a true sense of place, thanks to Steve Litke's weekly changing menu. He may grill tuna with a blood orange and fennel salad with golden beets and tangerine vinaigrette, or braise a lamb shank in local Zinfandel and serve it with polenta and mint gremolata. The dining room is as quaint as the outside, with generously spaced tables. There's a fireplace in one room, needed on many cool Russian River nights, and large French doors opening out onto a garden.
Specialties: Foie gras; rabbit three ways (bacon-wrapped loin, roasted rack and confit leg); chocolate souffle.
Dinner Thur.-Sun.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.