Few restaurants are as pure in intent as Camino in Oakland, owned by Russell Moore, who worked 20 years at Chez Panisse. The chef traces the source of all products, including the spirits, and most dishes are cooked over an open fire. The nightly changing menu has up to a half dozen appetizers and salads and only three main courses -- meat, fish and vegetarian. Diners sit at two 30-foot-long redwood tables crafted from a single tree, surrounded by chairs that came from an English church. With the fireplace in the center of the open kitchen and large iron chandeliers down each side, it feels almost monastic. But then Moore has created a temple of gastronomy.

 
Specialties: Main courses cooked over an open fire; leg of lamb; eggs cooked by the fire; French toast from the wood oven.

Hours

Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday; 5:30-10 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.

Cuisines

• California

Features

• Corkage ($15)
• Credit Cards: Accepted
• Full Bar
• Parking: Street
• Brunch
• Seating (84 (plus 12 in the lounge))