Luxurious is the best word to describe the Stephen Brady-designed restaurant in Presidio Heights. Diners sit on oversize faux ostrich-skin leather chairs or on chocolate mohair banquettes surrounded by matching mohair walls, dark wood paneling and cathedral ceilings. The menu, crafted by Mark Sullivan, who also does double duty at the Village Pub in Woodside, and his chef de cuisine, Ben Cohn, covers all bases. Main courses might include grilled bavette steak with duck fat potatoes or bacon-wrapped venison loin with preserved plums. Diners can have a full meal or get a quick bite at the bar and enjoy a fantastic hamburger, Caesar salad or French omelet.
Specialties: House-made charcuterie; boudin blanc with shelling beans; hamburger; sweetbreads Lyonnaise; buttered lobster with gnocchi and braised lettuces; honey-lacquered duck breast with cinnamon-spiced foie gras; large palmiers; warm beignets.
Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until 10:45 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.