Few people heard the term NoPa -- North of the Panhandle -- until this restaurant came along in 2006, taking over a space on Divisadero that in a former life was a bank. It's still one of the hottest reservations in town, thanks to Laurence Jossel's rustic menu. Much comes from the grill, such as the juicy grass-fed hamburger, or the wood-burning oven that produces smoke-kissed calamari with mandarins, chickpeas and radicchio. The restaurant stays open until 1 a.m. and has become a popular gathering place for chefs and night owls drawn to the vibrant bar scene, great cocktails and communal table.
Specialties: Flatbread; wood-baked giant beans with feta and oregano; Little Gem salad; rotisserie herbed chicken; grilled pork chop; hamburger; sopaipillas with honey-butter sauce.
Dinner 6 p.m.-1 a.m. nightly; brunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.