Canteen, one of the most personal, and exciting, restaurants, is really a 20-seat "diner" where chef/owner Dennis Leary almost single-handedly mans the stove. He's worked at many high-profile places, but likes the idea of controlling every aspect of the dining experience. His menu changes weekly and includes four appetizers, main courses and desserts. Offerings might include butter-poached squid with lentils to start, lamb neck with sauerkraut and carrot-apricot puree for a main course, and a vanilla souffle for dessert. Diners sit on stools at the lime green counter or at tables along one wall next to shelves of Leary's favorite books.
Specialties: Weekly changing menu; vanilla souffle always available.
Brunch 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday; lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Wednesday-Friday; dinner 6-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.