1722 Sacramento St. (near Polk Street)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 567-5432
A much-needed redo by noted designer John Wheatman has given this 20-year-old restaurant a fresh, refined look. Wheatman revitalized the rustic beam ceiling and arched openings that spoke to the restaurant's former life as a chapel. He turned it into a proper cathedral for Suzette Gresham Tognetti's beautifully conceived fixed-price menu and Giancarlo Paterlini's artful approach to Italian wines and service. Diners select three to five courses on the regular menu or the seven-course tasting menu that includes a glorious selection of Italian cheeses.
Specialties: House-made pasta with foie gras and black truffles; lobster panzerotti in spicy lobster brood; Parmesan budino; bourbon caramel semifreddo.
Dinner: Tues-Sat 5:30-9:30 p.m.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.