When it opened 22 years ago, La Folie was a modest brasserie, but chef-owner Roland Passot slowly upgraded the food and decor to four-star status. Passot was trained by the best, and his menu is pure French, but with California lightness and truck-driver portions. Like most places of this type, only a fixed-price menu is offered, from three to five courses. However, there are always a few other treats along the way. The interior was upgraded a few years ago when Passot took out seats, increased the size of tables and covered the walls in rich wood and soft fabrics.
Specialties: Warm pig's feet; sweetbread and lobster terrine; roti of quail and squab stuffed with mushrooms and wrapped in potato strings; warm Edam cheese souffle with fromage blanc sorbet; chocolate fondant.
Open for dinner 5:30-10:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.