After more than 30 years, some restaurants begin to age, but the food and spirit of Zuni Cafe endure; going there is as fresh and exciting as if the place opened last week. Part of the allure is the quirky loftlike interior that can't be duplicated, and the constant churn of patrons who frequent the restaurant at lunch and dinner: Politicians, celebrities, artists, business executives, transvestites, tourists and just plain folks find a common purpose here in Judy Rodgers' soulful food. It's truly San Francisco's dining room.
Specialties: Oysters; Caesar salad; polenta with mascarpone; house-cured anchovies; house-ground hamburger; whole chicken roasted in the wood oven; espresso granita.
Tues-Sat 11:30 a.m.-midnight; Brunch Sun 11:00 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Sun 5-11p.m.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.