4404 Old Redwood Highway (near River Road)
Santa Rosa
Tel. (707) 526-3096
It looks like little more than a squat roadhouse hugging old Redwood Highway in Santa Rosa, but Willi's Wine Bar is about as current as you'll find. The international small plates crafted by John Stroup change by the season and may include foie gras poppers with grape chutney; pancetta-wrapped quail with aged cassis vinegar; Tunisian roasted carrots with olives, pine nuts and mint; or a warm, silken crab pot de creme with curried crab. Mark and Terri Stark, who refurbished this roadhouse in 2002, also own a seafood outpost in Healdsburg and Stark's steakhouse on the other side of Santa Rosa.
Specialties: Moroccan lamb chops; filet mignon sliders; pork belly pot stickers; crab tacos with Fuji apples and mint; truffled French fries; roasted bone marrow.
Lunch, dinner 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Dinner 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Monday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.