Prepping the way for S.F. Fatted Calf shop

Thursday, June 3, 2010


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Fatted Calf's Taylor Boetticher has selected a Fell Street spot to open his San Francisco shop.


Hayes Valley's food scene will get a lot meatier this fall, when Taylor Boetticher plans to open Fatted Calf's first San Francisco brick-and-mortar location.

Boetticher had long been eyeing a slot in the Ferry Building - the Fatted Calf stand is at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market every Saturday - but when a former knitting shop space at 320 Fell St. unexpectedly popped up, he knew he found his perfect spot.

The San Francisco branch will have plenty of shades of the original Fatted Calf charcuterie shop in Napa's Oxbow Market (644 First St.), but there will be a few changes too.

Being in the city will allow Boetticher to expand his offerings - especially in the ready-to-eat department - which means he'll get new farms to work with and be able to provide more business to his existing suppliers.

Though most production will still be done in Napa, the new S.F. shop will hang its own salumi and have a glass-walled walk-in to display whole carcasses. Naturally, expect plenty of butchery demos and classes as well.

On the food side, there are intriguing whispers of a gut-busting gourmet chili, but also expect new to-go sandwiches, hot dogs and sausages. Boetticher says he's been playing with beer dogs, and wants to continue the experimentation with his favorite local craft beers, especially city ones like Magnolia and 21st Amendment.

Eventually, he's hoping to procure an off-sale beer and wine license, maybe even persuade a few brewer pals to concoct a custom Fatted Calf beer (a red ale perchance?) that can be sold at the shop.

And for those wondering, Fatted Calf will keep its kiosk at the farmers' market.


In other butchery news: There's a changing of the guard at Oakland's Rockridge Market Hall (5655 College Ave.). Enzo's Meat & Poultry closed Monday, after 22 years in business. The marketplace decided not to renew the old-school butcher shop's lease, opting instead for a new tenant - Marin Sun Farms.

The reasoning, according to Rockridge Market co-owner Sara Wilson, is simple enough: Marin Sun Farms puts more emphasis on the local/sustainable food movement, especially ranching and animal husbandry.

At its first East Bay outlet, Marin Sun Farms will offer a host of pasture-raised and/or grass-fed meats, all while furthering the conversation of local food sourcing.

Of course, that's little consolation for the folks at Enzo's.

"It's not very loyal, but it is what it is," says Enzo's proprietor Mark Murphy about the marketplace's decision. "They own the building, so they can do what they want."

In any event, Marin Sun Farms is aiming for a June 12 opening, at which point owner David Evans says he'll have a chance to win over fans of the dearly departed Enzo's.

"We're looking at it as an opportunity to build where Enzo's has left off and also to continue to build positive awareness of good quality meats," Evans says. "We're here to tie the farm to the urban center."


E&Oh; no: In the same week that saw Marin welcome several shiny newcomers - Corte Madera's Brick & Bottle, San Anselmo's L'Appart Resto, Mill Valley's Dish and Mill Valley Beerworks - the North Bay lost one of its higher-profile restaurants. The Larkspur branch of E&O; Trading Co. (2231 Larkspur Landing Circle) did not return from the holiday weekend, leaving the E&O; locations in San Francisco and San Jose as the sole surviving pair.

Interestingly enough, E&O;'s San Francisco location was bought six months ago and has been functioning as an independent restaurant since then.


A new mantra: Chef Sachin Chopra has spent the past few years helming some of the Peninsula's best Indian restaurants - namely Palo Alto's Mantra and most recently Mountain View's Sakoon (357 Castro St.). Now, Chopra is ready to go solo. He's left his post at Sakoon and is working on an Indian fusion project to call his own. The exact location is still in the works, but a seaside address in Half Moon Bay is in his sights.


Out of juice: Speaking of the 650, Nectar Wine Lounge in Burlingame (270 Lorton Ave.) will call it quits at month's end. The trendy wine bar - which also boasts a branch in San Francisco's Marina district (3330 Steiner St.) - will hold a series of promotions throughout June to sell off its 800-bottle wine list.

Managing partner Anton Hicks says the bumpy economy has hit the suburbs much harder than it has the city, so while the Burlingame spot fades away, the original Steiner Street location will remain up and running.


It's ba-ack: Riding the success of last summer's inaugural shindig in Union Square, SF Chefs is back for a second year. This time around, San Francisco's food and wine festival has shortened its name but extended its run from a weekend to a full week, Aug. 9-15. Tickets go on sale this week at sfchefsfoodwine.com.

E-mail Paolo Lucchesi at plucchesi@sfchronicle.com, and read his daily posts at insidescoopsf.com.

This article appeared on page E - 2 of the San Francisco Chronicle


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