I felt guilty. It was pouring rain on Easter, and rather than hosting our usual family brunch I was driving Mom to a 9-month-old restaurant in Richmond. Tucked in the harbor, the Boilerhouse seemed like a good idea when I had made the reservation. But that was before the Easter forecast called for howling winds, and before my first visit, which had been on a first date.
The atmosphere was actually perfect for a first date. The industrial-chic space, once the power plant for a Ford automobile factory, has a brewpub vibe. The restaurant's attached to a hangar-size assembly building that can hold up to 2,000 people for banquets. If you're looking to throw a party, the views of San Francisco are awesome.
My date and I had settled in on the wall end of a curvy, highly polished wood table. The restaurant has an open kitchen, a small central bar with cocktail seating, and a dining room that's neatly divided into communal and private seating. An open-sided loft with great views of the water has yet to be approved for use.
Our waitress that night was folksy and my date and I hit it off OK, but she said it wasn't worth the drive from Berkeley. Fried calamari ($8) was heavy and poorly crusted; the Apple Bleu Pizza ($9.50) was limp; the fish and chips ($14) had a slick aftertaste; and the desserts ($5) smacked of commercial sweetness.
So heading out in the rain that Sunday from Livermore seemed slightly insane. But it started off good and got better. The gruesome weather only made the dining room feel cozy and cheerful, and the food at brunch was definitely better.
Challah French toast and buttermilk griddle cakes (both $8) come with real maple syrup. The French toast is topped with a jammy berry compote, the pancakes with thick creme fraiche. Eggs Benedict ($12) and corned beef hash ($12) bring plump poached eggs and are superior meat.
When I returned for lunch, my Reuben's half-inch-thick slices of roast beef were warm and juicy ($8.50), drenching the wimpy bread. Burgers ($8.50-$11.50) are made with Niman Ranch beef and come tucked in sturdy buns and skin-on fries. Couscous salad ($8) with goat cheese and harissa vinaigrette and a handsome chopped Cobb salad ($8.50) were both fresh and lively, making me wonder if that first dinner visit was just an off night.
But another reason to come for lunch or brunch, now that the weather is improving, is the beautiful, winding Bay Trail that passes the restaurant. You can hike to a nearby park, where the Boilerhouse's silent smokestack is still visible, and read about Rosie the Riveter's role when the Ford factory was co-opted for the war effort. It's the kind of trivia elder generations eat up.
Hmmm. Maybe I can get out of cooking Mother's Day brunch as well.
Boilerhouse
1414 Harbour Way S. (near Cutting Boulevard, off Interstate 580), Richmond; (510) 215-6000 or boilerhouserestaurant.com.
Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; pub menu 3-5 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-9:30 Monday-Friday; brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Free parking lot.
OverallRating: TWO STARSAtmosphereRating: TWO AND A HALF STARSFoodRating: ONE AND A HALF STARS Prices$$ServiceRating: TWO STARSNoise RatingNoise Rating: FOUR BELLS
RATINGS KEY
FOUR STARS = Extraordinary; THREE STARS = Excellent; TWO STARS = Good; ONE STAR = Fair; NO STARS = Poor
$ = Inexpensive: entrees $10 and under; $$ = Moderate: $11-$17; $$$ = Expensive: $18-$24; $$$$ = Very Expensive: more than $25
ONE BELL = Pleasantly quiet (less than 65 decibels); TWO BELLS = Can talk easily (65-70); THREE BELLS = Talking normally gets difficult (70-75); FOUR BELLS = Can talk only in raised voices (75-80); BOMB = Too noisy for normal conversation (80+)
Prices are based on main courses. When entrees fall between these categories, the prices of appetizers help determine the dollar ratings. Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All meals are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a minimum of three visits. Ratings are updated continually based on at least one revisit.
Reviewers: Michael Bauer (M.B.), Tara Duggan (T.D.), Mandy Erickson (M.E.), Amanda Gold (A.G.), Miriam Morgan (M.M.), Carol Ness (C.N.), Karola Saekel (K.M.S.) and Carey Sweet (C.S.)
