Restaurants turn to trout instead of salmon

Mike Selvera had an idyllic introduction to trout, fishing alongside his grandfather in Idaho and cooking their haul over the campfire. But that's not the reason the Bar Crudo chef/co-owner made trout a staple on his menu.

"It's just very economical," Selvera says. "It's sustainable, it's super easy to get year-round, and it's really versatile."

Once considered an afterthought to salmon in the dining scene, trout is increasingly swimming past its relatives and into more Bay Area restaurant kitchens. Bar Crudo and Presidio Social Club in San Francisco, Tavern at Lark Creek in Larkspur and Yountville's Bouchon have all eschewed salmon in favor of trout.

The primary basis? Ecology and economics.

With salmon fishing in California banned for the second straight year, keeping the popular fish on the menu requires bringing in wild salmon from afar or using farm-raised salmon - both of which carry drawbacks.

Wild salmon costs up to three times as much as trout, according to Paul Johnson, who owns the Monterey Fish Market and supplies seafood to many Bay Area restaurants.

Using farm-raised salmon can be as costly reputation-wise, with much of the industry maligned for its impact on the ocean ecosystem.

"So many people in the Bay Area are aware of what is and what isn't sustainable," says Sarah Schafer, chef of Anchor & Hope in San Francisco. "With trout, nothing is being harmed to fish and farm.

"It's one of those unsung heroes of fish right now."

Though nearly all trout in U.S. markets is farmed, the Idaho-based industry has avoided the escape and pollution problems associated with salmon farming. Trout are also more efficient at converting their feed into protein, all of which has farm-raised rainbow trout ranked as a "Best Choice" on the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch List.

For restaurants, the freshwater fish is simply a dependable source - critical for operating in this tight economy. Sizes are uniform. Prices are consistent. There are no hidden costs involved, and deliveries are always on time.

"Unless we have a snowstorm and the truck is stuck in the mountain, it's never a problem," Johnson says.

Trout dishes are generally priced under $20, a bargain compared with salmon.

At Presidio Social Club, Pete Janiak serves trout in the classic amandine style - crusted in almonds, grilled whole on the broiler, and dressed with a parsley, brown butter and lemon juice - for $18.95.

"It's a simple fish and I think it does well with simple preparations," says Janiak, who also recommends pan-searing, smoking or even poaching trout.

Schafer added the fish to Anchor & Hope's menu last year and is still exploring ways to prepare it. She began by grilling trout exclusively but now makes a much more elaborate version, stuffing the fish with fennel and preserved lemon, wrapping it with prosciutto, then sauteing it to order ($26).

Randy Lewis of the Tavern at Lark Creek opts for pan-roasting the fish in a brown butter vinaigrette and keeps it seasonal by varying the accompanying vegetables and sauces. The New Orleans-trained chef is also a fan of crisping the skin and pairing trout with bacon.

"It's a great fish - it's tasty, it's farmed-friendly, and the price point is the direction a lot of restaurants are going in," says Lewis, who offers his trout dish for $16.95. "Fine dining or not, we're all looking for good food at reasonable prices."

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E-mail Janny Hu at jhu@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle