3870 17th St. (at Pond Street, between Noe and Sanchez streets)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 621-3870
Melissa Perello, who was a Chronicle Rising star in 2002 when she was just 25, and was used to cooking at high-end places such as the Fifth Floor, has opened a cozy neighborhood spot in the Castro where she can cook whatever she likes. And everyone seems to like -- make that love -- what she creates. She's amassed an experienced staff, including Paul Einbund, known for his creative wine matches at Coi. The list here is more compact and includes a house wine he's blended himself that sells for a very friendly $1 an ounce. You drink what you want and are charged accordingly.
Specialties: Menu changes nightly, but hope for chicken liver mousse; bacon beignets; crispy chickpea fritters; crab salad; chicken with savory bread pudding; lumberjack cake.
Dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.