Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort, Calistoga

Located mere feet from the central street in Calistoga, in the heart of Wine Country, Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort doesn't offer much in the way of the sort of remote luxury invoked by the word "resort." The basic setup - including three two-story lodgings arranged around a central pool - seems suspiciously close to the architecture of your average motel. The pool towels handed to guests upon check-in are perfectly workable, but not plush. The pool and adjoining hot tub are separated from the sidewalk by a low fence.

But what Roman Hot Springs lacks in deluxe amenities it more than makes up for in thoughtful, good-natured details. Picnic tables and lounge chairs are nestled in the multiple leafy courtyards scattered around the various resort buildings. Twenty-four rooms come equipped with full kitchens: refrigerator, dishes, cups, utensils, microwave and stove; the rest offer a mini refrigerator and single-cup coffeemaker. The modest scale and friendly staff, not to mention convenient location, make it an appealing, laid-back way to visit Wine Country.

Comfort zone

Mineral baths are, of course, a central draw of Roman Spa Hot Springs. Guests can take advantage of the large outdoor pool, hot tub and medium-size indoor bathing option for free (with hotel stay) or opt for more luxe options (massage, for instance) in the separate spa area. There are also two Finnish saunas.

The experience of public bathing, of course, depends on the clientele. During my stay, a number of families availed themselves of the pool, so laughter and Day-Glo floating noodles were the most prominent components. It was a perfectly agreeable situation, but guests looking for a quiet getaway might be better served by a less populated or more private spa/lodging outfit.

The room itself, which overlooked the pool, was definitely above motel quality. The queen-size bed was extremely comfortable and, with the mini-kitchen and little table, would be great for a longer stay - say, as a place to chill white wine to drink outside in one of the communal lounging stations.

Bath and beyond

Strong water pressure makes up for a lot in my book. The bathroom was not especially roomy or charming, but a towel rack, complimentary soaps and the aforementioned shower pressure made it unremarkable. (And bathrooms should generally err on the side of unremarkable.)

Gearing up