Cav
This wine bar/restaurant offers one of the prettiest cheese plates, with a selection of a dozen kinds paired with nuts, fresh and dried fruits, honey and bread. Owner Pamela Busch will be sure to have the right wine for the occasion. $7 for one cheese, $20 for three, $30 for five and grand platter for $85.
1666 Market St. (near Gough), San Francisco; (415) 437-1770 or cavwinebar.com. Dinner Monday-Saturday.
Perbacco
Perfectly stored ripe Italian cheese is the specialty of Perbacco, which offers a selection of 14 varieties. Depending on what's ordered, they're accompanied by white raisins in Moscato, various honeys or almonds and walnut bread. $8 for one cheese, $13 for two, $18 for three, $22 for four.
230 California St. (near Battery), San Francisco; (415) 955-0663 or perbaccosf.com. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday.
Spruce
This clubby restaurant always has 10 cheeses on hand, half American and half European. The plated selections are served with roasted Marcona almonds, honey and a seasonal fruit compote. The plated selections are $6 each, a taste of five American or European cheeses is $16, a taste of everything is $32.
3640 Sacramento St. (at Spruce), San Francisco; (415) 931-5100 or spruce
sf.com. Lunch Monday-Friday; dinner nightly.
Cyrus
The cart at this Healdsburg restaurant displays as many as 16 cheeses, an equal mix of domestic and imported. Accompaniments include warm toasts, honeycomb, fruit-nut bread, caramelized nuts, dates and a choice of three house-made breads. It's one of the choices on the eight-course tasting menu ($130) or on the bar menu: $17 for three cheeses, $28 for six.
29 North St. (at Healdsburg), Healdsburg; (707) 433-3311 or cyrusrestaurant.com. Closed Tuesday-Wednesday in the winter; otherwise, open for dinner nightly.
Madrona Manor
At this Healdsburg Victorian inn, Joseph Bain nearly always handles the cheese cart, which includes a heated rock that gently warms one of the cheeses. He has about 10 selections paired with dates, grapes, edible flowers, candied nuts, honey and baguettes. It's a $10 supplement to the tasting menus ($64 for three courses to $82 for five). Added as an extra course, it's $12.
1001 Westside Road (at West Dry Creek), Healdsburg; (800) 258-4003 or madronamanor.com. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday.This story has been corrected since it appeared in print editions.