What's It Like?

Not so long ago, there wasn't much to draw visitors to this residential and industrial area of the Mission. However, changes in the city caused a crop of Internet startups to spring up around the Potrero Hill side of the Mission, and with them a flock of chic restaurants and bars. In spite of the surviving businesses and the controversial live/work lofts that are also rapidly filling this neighborhood's empty lots, the area also remains a stronghold of artists and working-class families, though the coexistence of these diverse elements is at times uneasy.

Sights & Culture

CELLspace: On the outside, CELLspace is a facade of murals. On the inside, it's a mixed-use space that is home to a variety of free classes in breakdancing, lo-rider bicycle construction, salsa and merengue dancing, and more. There's the Crucible Steel gallery in the front of the space, which exhibits local emerging artists on a roughly monthly basis. And there are concerts, parties, plays, fundraisers and a free after-school program. Check the Web site for class and gallery information. 2050 Bryant St., between 18th and 19th streets. (415) 648-7562.

Project Artaud: This vast arts complex houses dozens of live/work artist spaces as well as several organizations, such as the Southern Exposure Gallery, A Traveling Jewish Theater and the Theater of Yugen. The Project Artaud Theater, which hosts a wide array of shows and events, is available for rental as a performance/rehearsal facility. 499 Alabama St. (415) 621-4240. (Web site)

Maddie's Pet Adoption Center: Named after a benefactor's beloved little dog, the San Francisco SPCA's deluxe adoption center is worth a visit in itself for its spacious (and controversial) animal accommodations, but the resident dogs and cats will be happy to see you, too. 2500 16th St., at Florida Street, (415) 554-3000. (Web site)

Restaurants

Atlas Cafe: Baked beet sandwiches and banjo music make the Atlas Cafe a neighborhood standout. Add in a popular outdoor patio, top-notch reading material and strong coffee, and you've got a hipster hangout par excellence. Although vegetarian and vegan offerings make up about half the chalkboard menu, selections like the grilled Cuban beef sandwich and mayo-less tuna with coconut and nori also have strong followings. A smattering of pizzas such as goat cheese and apple make a satisfying, shareable snack. Every Thursday is bluegrass night. Get there early to put your order in and nab one of the coveted small tables or seats along the corrugated counter. (-SF Chronicle) 3049 20th St., at Alabama Street, (415) 648-1047. (Web site)

Bar Bambino: A epicure's oasis on an otherwise dicey block, this tiny restaurant specializes in shareable plates such as eggplant meatballs ($13.50) and rabbit ragout with pappardelle ($13.50). Order a glass of vino from the adventuresome all-Italian wine list and head to the communal table for a cozy-chic vibe. 2931 16th St., near Capp, (415) 701-8466. (Chronicle review | Web site)

Bissap Baobab: Endure long waits at this unpretentious Senegalese restaurant with an exotic drink from the bar, like a hibiscus margarita or a fresh ginger, lime juice, and vodka mixer. Affordable menu (entrees between $7 and $11) is vegetarian friendly, with assorted kebabs and sauce-infused dishes served with rice on the side. Don't start your meal without trying fried plantains and tamarind sauce. 2323 Mission St., between 19th and 20th streets. (415) 401-0641. (Web site)

Cafe Gratitude: A sunny vegan-raw-organic restaurant with a self-affirming menu that includes "I Am Thankful" spicy coconut curry soup with shiitake mushrooms and an "I Am Worthy" health drink of kale, beet, celery, apple and ginger. For dessert, try one of the frozen nut cremes, made in a hand-cranked ice cream maker at your table. 2400 Harrison St. (at 20th Street), (415) 824-4652. (Web site)
Jon Carroll loves Cafe Gratitude

Blowfish Sushi to Die For: Creative sushi rolls and a sleek decor of Japanese anime pictures make the near-fatal prices of the Blowfish menu worth it, if you're up for an evening of glossy Asian kitsch. 2170 Bryant St., at 20th Street, (415) 285-3848. (Chronicle review)

Circolo: With a cushy lounge and dramatic bar, a sophisticated Latino-Asian menu and a dancing-party space, Circolo has brought a little flash back to Multimedia Gulch. Martin and Antonio Castillo from Limon created a menu with plenty of starters and small plates, while pastry chef Todd Bauer, formerly of Asia de Cuba, tops things off with desserts such as a lime tart with a strawberry milkshake. Food served until 1 a.m. Thursday-Saturday. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 500 Florida (at Mariposa), (415) 553-8560. (Chronicle review)

El Metate: Seating is limited at this tropical-looking taqueria, where everything is made from scratch. Standouts include a quesadilla filled with chicken and three kinds of cheese, served with guacamole and salsa. Also exceptional are the soft tacos with velvety pork in a tangy chile verde sauce. (-SF Chronicle) 2406 Bryant St. (near 22nd Street), (415) 641-7209. (Bargain Bites 2004)

El Tonayense Taco Trucks: It's all about the tacos at these lunch trucks parked along Harrison Street and Shotwell. The irresistible meats, including rich carnitas and well-seasoned al pastor (marinated pork) are piled atop mini corn tortillas and topped with chopped onion and cilantro. Be sure to order at least two of the $1.50 tacos; many customers walk away with at least three or four. The trucks open at 9:30 a.m. daily, in case you get pre-lunch taco craving. (-SF Chronicle) At the corners of Harrison and 19th streets, Harrison and 22nd streets, and Shotwell and 16th streets. (Bargain Bites 2004)

Florida Street Cafe: Staffed by recent graduates of the Latino Cuisine Culinary Academy, this breakfast and lunch cafe has an open kitchen, wood floors and friendly, though informal, service. Lunch might include a Cuban-style sandwich or pork chops with papaya salsa, rice and black beans. But the real deal is in the morning, with breakfast burritos for $1. (-SF Chronicle) 710 Florida St. (at 19th Street), (415) 648-5227.

Los Jarritos: A good place for breakfast, and a favorite is Machaca: beef, peppers, and tomatoes sauteed with egg. Try it with a glass of fresh-squeezed OJ. Also, if menudo on the weekends is your thing, Los Jarritos is the place to get it. Service and atmosphere are just above mediocre. 901 South Van Ness Ave. at 20th. (415) 648-8383.

Universal Cafe: Soulful combinations of American food, with a focus on the local and seasonal, is served in a sleek yet intimate industrial space. Prices are mid-range. Server friendliness seems to vary. (SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 2814 19th St. (between Florida and Bryant streets), (415) 821-4608. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Shopping

Atelier Posey et Susan: Local artists Posey and Susan Tibbon share this hole-in-the-wall shop and studio, where everything they sell they make themselves, often with scrounged or recycled materials. Although the shop is a showcase of the Tibbons' constant inventiveness, some items are mainstays. They always have art gift pieces, home decor items, seasonal or holiday things and sewn things. (-SF Chronicle) 2720 16th St. (at Harrison), San Francisco. (415) 776-6367. (Web site)

Pedal Revolution: This no-glitz bike shop sells new and used parts and offers a selection of new, custom-built and refurbished bicycles. They're happy to take on challenging projects, and they also offer free repair classes. Their social mission includes a youth-apprenticeship program and a drop-in center for street kids. 3085 21st St., (415) 641-1264. (Web site)

Rainbow Grocery Cooperative: This worker-owner cooperative isn't just a grocery; it embodies a distinct Bay Area lifestyle. Shop Rainbow's enormous warehouse space for organic produce, bulk foods, fancy cheeses, herbal remedies and kitchen items, or troll the store's community boards for a like-minded vegan conservationist roommate. 1745 Folsom St., at 13th Street, (415) 863-0620. (Web site)

Nightlife

The Monkey Club: A quasi Middle Eastern vibe inlcudes Arabic lettering on the wall and a few food-menu items like Lebanese mazza and lamb kabobs. Weeknights are quiet, but weekend nights with DJs fill up with a mix of locals and bridge-and-tunnelers. The somewhat pricey but creative mixed drinks, which are $2 cheaper during happy hour (5 pm-8 pm), all have names to mesh with the primate theme. (-Lisa Zaffarese, SF Gate) 2730 21st St., (415) 647-2144.

Rite-Spot Cafe: Rumor has it that Tom Waits comes here when he's in San Francisco, but even if that's not the case, the white-clothed tables and occasional piano music at this Mission restaurant and speakeasy make it worth a stop. 2099 Folsom St., at 17th Street, (415) 552-6066.

Shotwell 59: This beer-and-wine pub draws dog owners and bikers in particular, but everyone is welcome to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, pool table and popcorn machine (just ask for a dish). 3349 20th St., at Shotwell Street, (415) 647-1141.

Updated 7/05